We all have tried and true patterns don’t we? Those patterns that we reach for again and again. And for me, it’s fast becoming Burda 102 from May 2017. I’ve used this pattern already here and here . This time, I’ve made my fave wide-leg cropped pants pattern in a dusky pink summer-weight suiting, which just goes to show that suiting fabric doesn’t have to be kept strictly for suits and jackets. Why not think outside the box a little and try it for other types of clothes?
This particular deliciously coloured fabric came from Clothspot. It’s called Calmante wool suiting and is a lovely lightweight fabric and perfect for summer bottoms. Plus as it’s a natural fibre it doesn’t make you all hot and bothered (which is a huge plus for me as my internal thermostat doesn’t seem to work well these days…ladies, you know what I mean 😉 )
Just like my corduroy version of this pattern I’ve moved the zipper to the centre front seam instead of the side. It’s quite easy to do…you just need to extend your pattern beyond the seam on the side where the front overlap will be by about 2 centimetres and make the extension curve in at the bottom. You also need to cut an extra zip guard in either contracting fabric like I have, or the same main fabric. It’s just a wide strip folded double and overclocked down one edge. Why not check out a tutorial for a fly zipper…here’s a good one that I found. Here’s a pic showing my zip guard and on the inside of my waist I used the same contrasting fabric, because well, who doesn’t love pretty insides?
Another feature that I love about this design is the curved waistband it really does give it a beautiful fit and feels comfier to me than a straight one. I’ve omitted the pocket on the back but I kept the two front ones and of course, you know how much I love a bit of topstitching so I topstitched the waistband, pockets and hems.
My method for giving the stitching some stand-out oomph is to combine two strands of regular sewing thread. Just pop a reel on both spool-holders on your sewing machine and thread the two strands through the needle eye together. If you start to experience skipped stitches though, why not try a topstitch needle with an elongated eye. This should solve that problem.
As a final word on the fabric that this is a wool blend with a little lycra and most likely if you use this in a jacket you probably have it dry cleaned as suggested on the website. However I didn’t want to dry clean my pants so I pre-washed the fabric at 30 degrees and then steam pressed it thoroughly. I’ve done this on similar weight wool fabrics before and I’ve been able to wash and wear my finished garment afterwards with no problems (disclaimer…your experience may differ so test your fabric first).
These pants are a lovely addition to my wardrobe and I love the dusky pink colour. Not sure if I can promise myself that I won’t make this pattern again though. Do you have a tried-and-true pattern? Why don’t you tell me in the comments? Also, let me know if you’ve treated wool fabrics in a similar way and washed them afterwards.
Thanks for reading, and I’ll catch you soon.
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Those look very summery! I have a few things in a wool elastane blend and I wash them gently in the machine without problems.
Author
Thanks, Catherine!
Hi Diana, I always wash my woolen homemades bij hand, 10 minutes in Eucalan, a no rinse (!) liquid made of lanoline (sheep’s fat). Works wonderful, I never had any trouble with shrinkage. And because you don’t have to rinse the stuff, it’s really no trouble at all: just put it in the water, and hang it up to dry. Actually, I clean all my delicate things, my silk dresses, my lingerie etc in Eucalan.
Bye, Barkcloth from Amsterdam
Author
Hi! and thank you so much for that fabulous tip. I’ll see if I can source some
Lovely handiwork there, I love topstitching too. It’s nice when you can find a pattern with a curved waistband. Definitely more comfortable. Well done Diane!
Author
Yes, so comfy. Thank you, Linda!
Beautiful as always Diane! That colour is divine and “pretty insides” to boot. I’ve never sewn with wool which sounds weird I know – being 65 years old and a Canadian! but I never have because of all the “fuss” I thought it needed however, having read how you treat yours I’m now much more open to giving it a go. I love silk and I always wash my silk – sometimes I’ll even throw it in the dryer for good measure. Most good quality fabrics don’t need the babying many people mistakenly believe and here I had those same misguided beliefs about wool!
Author
Thank you, Kathleen! Yes, I know how much you love your silk, which I’ve sewn a lot for others in the past, but I only have one silk item myself. We both need to step out of our comfort zone a little eh?
Such a great colour, Di! And your sewing is perfect as always. I put everything in the washing machine, even RTW jackets. Haven’t managed to shink anyhting yet (famous last words, ha ha).
Author
Thanks Alex! I could see you in this shade :).
Hehe, I do wash in the machine quite a lot myself I must admit. Just a couple of coat exceptions.
These are fabulous, love the contoured waistband and you top stitching.
Author
Thanks ever so much Lynne!