Hello! As promised in a previous post where I shared the exciting news that I’d been asked to be part of the Burda Influencer Team (so happy to be chosen!), here is my first official make as one of the team.
(Note: I was gifted the PDF pattern free of charge. All opinions are my own. Please see my disclosure policy here for more information)
So for the first of my monthly patterns, I knew exactly what I was going to make. You see, I already have some denim cropped wide trousers that I’m not so keen on… the fit is really off at the back and they don’t look great… I wanted to replace them…an upgrade if you like. I immediately started to browse the Burda website for culottes type patterns and let me tell you there are some great designs to choose from, but something about this pattern caught my eye.
Let me introduce you to BurdaStyle pattern number 102 from 05/2017 I can’t tell you how much I love this pattern! The fit, the drafting, the shape. F-A-B!
Starting at the top is a contoured waistband. If you’ve never worn one, give it a try I love how they fit your shape and feel firm but don’t dig in. Next, we have some awesome pockets. They are no ordinary pockets….apart from the lovely button and topstitch detail there is an integrated section inside that goes right across your tummy. It holds everything in nicely and the pockets always stay put.
Following on are a perfect width leg line with just the right amount of volume and they finish off with generous deep hems. A final flourish is the single large patch pocket on the right-hand side at the back (this is optional depending on which pattern view you make). All in all, these are my dream wide trouser/culottes and I’m already planning on a linen pair.
To get my personal fit I was surprised at how few modifications I needed. I cut my PDF on size 38 (I’m a little in between 36 and 38 really) and to be sure of the crotch curve I tried my wide leg pants pattern used here and after checking leg widths all I had to do was to lower the back crotch curve a bit and then straighten the front curve a little. I also made the curved waistband very slightly straighter because I have quite a straight shape with not a lot of waist definition. And that was it….hardly any alterations…result!
Fabric and Cutting
So for my fabric, I chose a lightweight stretch denim from Sherwoods Fabrics and ordered 1.60m which it turned out was less than the recommended amount. I had guessed the amount because I bought it before I got the pattern…naughty me! I really could have done with more too as I didn’t quite have enough to cut the pockets as needed or to have double fabric on the waistbands. As luck would have it though, I found some leftover quilting weight cotton in a colourful spotty design, which was perfect for a splash of colour on the inside. I was able to cut waistband facings, pocket bags and zip guard, all in the attractive spottiness.
Sewing Up and Details
The first stage of making these trousers is the fab pockets and the instructions were fine at describing the process. Mine went together easily and I love how the pocket bags extend across the tummy.
Next step was to stitch the inside legs and then I basted each side seam, I then basted on the waistband and had a try on. To my delight, the fit was pretty darn good straight away all I needed to do was to get rid of a little width (a size 36 would be spot on for future makes)
I was then able to finish off the sides leaving a generous opening for the zip on one of them and then I stitched on the waistbands.
I sewed in a concealed zip down the left side going right through the waistband and used my own method mentioned in this post. Normally I would leave the whole seam open and stitch it up after putting in the zip but this time I just left a larger opening. I decided to add a zip guard though it doesn’t specify one in the instructions.
Another bit of the design that I had to change was due to my shortage of fabric. The design has a deep hem of double fabric which is seamed in a circle, folded double and then stitched along the bottom. I had to improvise so I just have a deep-ish regular hem. I think it looks fine, but would love to try out the proper way if I make these again (which I would love to do)
I couldn’t resist doing a fair bit of topstitching on my denim. I wanted a rich yellowy beige tone and as I didn’t have quite the right colour thread I combined two standard Guttermann threads which worked a treat using a topstitch needle. I just put one reel on each of the spool holders on my machine and threaded them through the needle together.
Here are some detail shots for you to browse. I love the insides!
(PS. those little strips of ribbon in the last photo at fixed at the back of the buttons and anchored at the side seam to prevent stretching where they are attached)
I’m so thrilled with my finished trousers. As you can see I’ve styled mine with casual flats, but I’d also love them with a chunky heel too and even ankle or knee-high boots for Autumn. Lots of styling possibilities. I’m already thinking of another pair in linen… oh, and maybe full-length ones as well…would also be great as shorts as well….the list goes on 🙂
In the meantime, I’m already thinking about my next month’s make for BurdaStyle and before that, I have a few other makes to share with you.
Have you tried trend the cropped wide leg trouser/culotte trend? Let me know what you think in comments… I have to admit to being a little obsessed right now. I like that they’re quite versatile and I love the trend.
Catch you soon, thanks for reading x
** Disclosure: I was gifted the BurdaStyle pattern. All opinions are my own.
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