Hello! As promised in a previous post where I shared the exciting news that I’d been asked to be part of the Burda Influencer Team (so happy to be chosen!), here is my first official make as one of the team.
(Note: I was gifted the PDF pattern free of charge. All opinions are my own. Please see my disclosure policy here for more information)
So for the first of my monthly patterns, I knew exactly what I was going to make. You see, I already have some denim cropped wide trousers that I’m not so keen on… the fit is really off at the back and they don’t look great… I wanted to replace them…an upgrade if you like. I immediately started to browse the Burda website for culottes type patterns and let me tell you there are some great designs to choose from, but something about this pattern caught my eye.
Pattern Smitten..
Let me introduce you to BurdaStyle pattern number 102 from 05/2017 I can’t tell you how much I love this pattern! The fit, the drafting, the shape. F-A-B!
Starting at the top is a contoured waistband. If you’ve never worn one, give it a try I love how they fit your shape and feel firm but don’t dig in. Next, we have some awesome pockets. They are no ordinary pockets….apart from the lovely button and topstitch detail there is an integrated section inside that goes right across your tummy. It holds everything in nicely and the pockets always stay put.
Following on are a perfect width leg line with just the right amount of volume and they finish off with generous deep hems. A final flourish is the single large patch pocket on the right-hand side at the back (this is optional depending on which pattern view you make). All in all, these are my dream wide trouser/culottes and I’m already planning on a linen pair.
Pattern Modifications
To get my personal fit I was surprised at how few modifications I needed. I cut my PDF on size 38 (I’m a little in between 36 and 38 really) and to be sure of the crotch curve I tried my wide leg pants pattern used here and after checking leg widths all I had to do was to lower the back crotch curve a bit and then straighten the front curve a little. I also made the curved waistband very slightly straighter because I have quite a straight shape with not a lot of waist definition. And that was it….hardly any alterations…result!
Fabric and Cutting
So for my fabric, I chose a lightweight stretch denim from Sherwoods Fabrics and ordered 1.60m which it turned out was less than the recommended amount. I had guessed the amount because I bought it before I got the pattern…naughty me! I really could have done with more too as I didn’t quite have enough to cut the pockets as needed or to have double fabric on the waistbands. As luck would have it though, I found some leftover quilting weight cotton in a colourful spotty design, which was perfect for a splash of colour on the inside. I was able to cut waistband facings, pocket bags and zip guard, all in the attractive spottiness.
Sewing Up and Details
The first stage of making these trousers is the fab pockets and the instructions were fine at describing the process. Mine went together easily and I love how the pocket bags extend across the tummy.
Next step was to stitch the inside legs and then I basted each side seam, I then basted on the waistband and had a try on. To my delight, the fit was pretty darn good straight away all I needed to do was to get rid of a little width (a size 36 would be spot on for future makes)
I was then able to finish off the sides leaving a generous opening for the zip on one of them and then I stitched on the waistbands.
I sewed in a concealed zip down the left side going right through the waistband and used my own method mentioned in this post. Normally I would leave the whole seam open and stitch it up after putting in the zip but this time I just left a larger opening. I decided to add a zip guard though it doesn’t specify one in the instructions.
Another bit of the design that I had to change was due to my shortage of fabric. The design has a deep hem of double fabric which is seamed in a circle, folded double and then stitched along the bottom. I had to improvise so I just have a deep-ish regular hem. I think it looks fine, but would love to try out the proper way if I make these again (which I would love to do)
Finishing touches
I couldn’t resist doing a fair bit of topstitching on my denim. I wanted a rich yellowy beige tone and as I didn’t have quite the right colour thread I combined two standard Guttermann threads which worked a treat using a topstitch needle. I just put one reel on each of the spool holders on my machine and threaded them through the needle together.
Here are some detail shots for you to browse. I love the insides!
(PS. those little strips of ribbon in the last photo at fixed at the back of the buttons and anchored at the side seam to prevent stretching where they are attached)
I’m so thrilled with my finished trousers. As you can see I’ve styled mine with casual flats, but I’d also love them with a chunky heel too and even ankle or knee-high boots for Autumn. Lots of styling possibilities. I’m already thinking of another pair in linen… oh, and maybe full-length ones as well…would also be great as shorts as well….the list goes on 🙂
In the meantime, I’m already thinking about my next month’s make for BurdaStyle and before that, I have a few other makes to share with you.
Have you tried trend the cropped wide leg trouser/culotte trend? Let me know what you think in comments… I have to admit to being a little obsessed right now. I like that they’re quite versatile and I love the trend.
Catch you soon, thanks for reading x
** Disclosure: I was gifted the BurdaStyle pattern. All opinions are my own.
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I love these but have got to tell you that I would never make them this length because I would look ridiculous. You look lovely though, so there is that personal style thing again! Your topstitching really does set them off beautifully and I am fascinated by that piece of ribbon, I’ve not seen that done before and have tucked it away for when I have the need.
Author
Hehe, yes, this length isn’t everyone’s cuppa. I’ve seen may ladies on IG sporting it though and thought I’d give it a go myself. I think a heel would help to make it more conventionally flattering. You have long slim legs though … and think this trousers style would suit you Sue 🙂 Oh yes, my bit of ribbon…I didn’t want the buttonhole to get stretched by the button so it helps with that
I too like the ribbon tip and will be using it in future, thank you.
Author
Thanks Chris. I’m glad you found my little tip useful
These look fabulous on you and you wear the wide legged trousers ‘look’ well! Top-stitching is spot-on and as always, your work shows how well-made they are. Thank you for including an inside photo as it’s a learning experience (to me!) to see how other’s finish their garment. Yours looks pretty ‘inside’ as well as ‘out’! 🙂
Author
Thanks so much Lisa. You’re very kind xx
Excellent post Diane…I love the pocket construction too. I didn’t make many changes to mine either. You look very stylish in these. Xx
Author
Thanks so much and for stopping by Suzy xx. I’m glad you love your Burda trousers too.
I love the pockets! I think they are similar to ready to wear Not Your Daughters Jeans. Great post. I’m going to try this pattern
Author
I’m glad you like them Barbara, thank you!. I agree about the pockets…they are made a bit like NYDJ. To get a nice firm effect I would recommend taking a smidge more in the seam at CF where the two pocket bags meet and stretch a little into the band.
Nice style on you! Such a gutsy length that you pull off fabulously! Love the pocket detail – and your topstitching is spot on. Going to have to pull that issue of the magazine and check this one out.
Author
Thanks so much Linda. It’s definitely a pattern worth looking at x
Love those! They look great on you! I’ve become a big fan of cropped trousers/culottes myself in the last year 🙂
Author
Thanks so much Maria! Bet you look fab in this style of trouser.
Like these and went on birds site thinking I may buy the pattern couldn’t find it though. Is it still available? Can’t believe you would be encouraged to make these to publicise Burda if the pattern was no longer available……
Author
Hello Anne. I’m sorry you had trouble finding the pattern, but I can assure you the pattern is definitely available. You can either click on the link in my blog post above or you can search the pattern section on BurdStyle.com. Click ‘Patterns’ at the top menu then scroll down the left-hand menu for ‘Pants’, click on that and my trousers are on page 2
Really nice! I like the casual styling of both pockets. They’ll look awesome in linen!
Author
Thank you, Sheryll xx. I’m on the lookout already for linen 🙂
I can’t get enough of your neat sewing! They really came out ace! And I think that the cotton innards bring a nice touch of pop! Looking forward to seeing more Burda makes!!
Author
Aww, thank you lovely! Glad you like them. I know how much you like Burda too 🙂
I have just discovered your blog and your pants look so great. I have been looking for a pattern to make some pants to wear in the hot weather and these look a good place to start so I am going to give them a try. Thanks for all the sewing details you have given as they are appreciated and will help as I put mine together.
Author
Hello Christine, it’s lovely to have you here. I hope you’ll stick around now that you’ve found me 🙂 It’s great that you’re going to try these pants. Perhaps you could pop back and let me know how you get on? And feel free to get in touch any time with queries.
Well they are finished, and it is certainly a great pattern with a great fit for me at least. I only had 1.5 m of linen fabric so it was a squeeze to get them out and I couldn’t do the big cuff and had to make a false hem. I made a feature of this by top stitching with the triple stitch on my machine. I echoed this top stitching elsewhere. Very pleased with them but the weather needs to cool off a bit to wear them as we are experiencing temps around 35C at the moment.
Author
Ooh, thanks for popping back with an update Chris! I couldn’t be more pleased that you like the pattern as much as I do. Your trousers sound fabulous. I love the sound of the topstitching. It’s been far too warm here as well, so I haven’t been able to wear mine either, but never mind, because I’m so glad the UK is finally having a proper Summer for once.
They look fantastic – and I like the length. I remember wearing something very like this, gulp, some decades ago! So neatly stitched – your love of topstitching shows through. You are going to love wearing these over summer.
Author
Thanks for your lovely comment Sarah Liz…I’m so glad you like them. Hehe, fashions do have a habit of coming back around again, don’t they? There are many I remember wearing before! Mind you there is always a slightly different spin in the revived styles to make them current.