Today you’re being treated to an earlier post than usual because it’s the day that Issue 13 of the Fibremood magazine becomes available and I got to sew up one of the new patterns ahead of time. This is the Fibremood Paulette blouse and I was given the pattern to make and review and to show you lovely lot, of course 🙂
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You know, I can’t remember the last time I made an actual button-up blouse. I used to wear them often in my 20s and for some reason, I stopped liking them in favour of knits. I still don’t like shirt type collars but I like this collar because it’s just a collar stand (or mandarin collar as I used to call them).
Anyway, when it was time to decide if I wanted to make anything from this edition of the magazine I found myself drawn to this blouse. I’ll be honest with you, I had my doubts about whether I would like the ruffle but the fact that I had some lovely soft and drapey silk in my stash (some Clothspot fabric that was a Christmas gift) which would be perfect for it, so I decided to go for it.
The blouse has two princess seams at the front which go over the shoulder and carry on at the upper back in a curved yoke. The ruffle follows the yoke seam at the back and this was the only part that I wasn’t keen on as I dislike ruffley yokes and also I felt it might emphasise my rounded shoulders. So the first order of business was to keep the curved yoke seam but to cut the ruffle shorter and stop it just by the top of the shoulder. Once I was set on that plan I got to work…
I cut a straight size 38 and it was pretty much perfect. All I did was to bring the shoulder seam towards the front for my forward shoulder adjustment and to increase a bit of bust depth/length. To do this I slashed the side front and opened it by about a half-inch (1.5cm) and then added the same amount on the front panel, by slashing across level with the bust.
In my previous two Fibremood makes (here and here), I wished there had been a bit more shaping in the form of bust darts (which I added myself) but I’m actually pretty impressed with the drafting for this blouse. It really is a nice shape. I came to the conclusion a while back that I don’t like unfitted blouses without shape…just too much volume if I ever want to tuck, but I really love the shape of the Paulette. Those front princess seams are just lovely so I can say in all honesty that this pattern is worth getting hold of if you like a fitted silhouette.
So those ruffles…all I did for the shoulder area was to cut off some length and curve the end of the ruffle round at the end so that it just disappears into the back yoke seam just past the centre of the sleeve head. Now the instructions have you do a narrow hem along the ruffle edge but I thought a rolled hem done on my overlocker/serger would be a lovely way to finish the edges. I wrote a rolled hem tutorial here if you’re interested in trying it out for yourself.
The fiddly-est bits of this make? Without a doubt those rounded ends of the collar and covering the buttons…there was much muttering of naughty words under my breath. I also had to make sure I had a brand spanking new Schmetz Microtex size 60 needle in my sewing machine because the fabric was a challenge to sew. A thicker needle would pull threads and I had to be careful with pinning too. Apart from just being mindful of those things it was an enjoyable and relatively quick make (a refreshing change after my recent tailoring marathon!).
And those doubts I had about the style? Well, I have to say I’m really taken with the style and it doesn’t feel overly sweet. I think the collar and button closure do a lovely job of moderating the sweet ruffles. I love that it’s fitted too. I’m also thinking this would be great with piping added down those front seams and the sleeves hacked into a puffed bell sleeve shape with deeper cuffs…what say you? Ooh and maybe buttons and loops instead of buttonholes…yes!
On that note, I’ll love you and leave you and I’ll get back to my Friday schedule next week. See you then!
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