Now it’s time to chat more about my making process and to show you the finished coat…spoiler alert…I love it!
Before I get going, I just want to say that I went my own way a lot of the time rather than following the Vikisews instructions to the letter. I used slightly more traditional tailoring techniques on some of the stages.
So, after completing the back and the front with the flap pockets I got cracking on the fronts and lapels. I used a hair canvas over the whole of the coat fronts and attached it following methods outlined by Kenneth D King in his ‘Smart Tailoring’ DVDs that I mentioned in a previous post (I’m not sure if they are still available to buy anymore I got a second-hand version from eBay). Each piece of canvas is mounted on some cotton muslin. The muslin is attached with a serpentine stitch and then the muslin is trimmed back to the stitches. The hair canvas stops short of the main construction seams so that only the muslin is held in the seams of the coat and the canvas ‘hangs’ from the muslin edges. I love how this cuts down on bulk.
After cutting and lapping the waist dart and I basted the canvas to the front pieces. Then I prepared it for pad-stitching…
I did a Reel for Instagram with my pad-stitch technique for the collar so I thought I’d include it here. It’d been a long time since I did pad-stitching but it soon came back to me:
Next, I moved onto making up the collar and again I pad-stitched this. I love how the fabric and canvas mould to a lovely shape.
And here’s the finished collar ready to attach to the coat.
At this point, I had a proper try on of my half-done coat and I realised that not adding interfacing all the way to the hem of the back pieces was a mistake. It just looked a bit too fluid in the way it hung and it needed more body. I ended up unpicking the back seams from waist down and ironing on more interfacing before stitching back up again…lesson learned.
I could now get onto the next step which was to sew up the lining and attach it to the facing. For a little extra prettiness, I made a flat bias binding insert between the lining and facing. I love how harmonious the colours all look together 🙂
Once I had attached the collar and facings to the body of the coat it finally started to look like a proper garment, yay!
Again I broke away from the instructions and before I stitched the sleeves in I sewed the lining to them at the hems. After sewing the sleeves in I added some sleeve head roll and shoulder pads, then I stitched the armhole of the lining all around the armhole of the main fabric. Finally, after hemming up the sleeves, I pulled the sleeve lining into place and slip-stitched it to the armhole. Again, this is more of a traditional tailoring technique.
After doing the hems and buttonholes my Emmanuelle coat was finally done! It was a big project, but I’m glad I chose a great pattern. It was well drafted and apart from needing a bit length over my bust it was pretty true to size.
The whole coat feels really substantial and quite warm too. I didn’t overfit it because I wanted a bit of room to layer thick sweaters under if I need to. I’ve also left plenty of length on it which may take a bit of getting used to, but I’m enjoying a different silhouette for now and it’s an easy fix if I want to go shorter later. In fact it feels pretty good!. I’m guessing I’ll have it in my wardrobe for years to come.
Well, that completes the epic coat saga. I feel like I’m in need of a quicker sew for my next project…and funnlily enough that’s just what I’ll be doing. In fact I’m back a bit sooner than usual next week, Wednesday to be precise with something for you in pure silk, so stay tuned for that.
In the meantime, thank you so much for reading, stay well, stay safe and I’ll see you soon.
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