Well, originally I’d planned on making and writing about a sweatshirt, but I recently had another urge to have a go at making lingerie, so today I want to share the next chapter in my bra making adventures.
Previously I had tried my hand at the Devonshire bra by Orange Lingerie and the Ruby bra by Pin-Up Girls (in this post). The Ruby unfortunately was a no go and the Devonshire needed a little bit more work to give me the shape I wanted. Then I had much better luck with the Boylston which I made twice. The pattern needed a little extra tweaking so that’s where I picked up this time.
Bra Making Adventures: The Boylston Bra
First up is the Boylston. For this, I used some pretty mint and white stretch lace that I bought from B’Wear of Sweden. I think the elastics and cup liner came from Sewing Chest. After my previous black and red lace version, I added a little more room at the apex and I flattened the crossways seam right at my underarm area.
I’ve used two layers of sheer tricot lining on the frame and one layer for the cups. In order to get a nice lace edge at the bottom of my bra, I made a centre seam in the bridge and then got rid of the seam that joins the side frame to the bridge. Then I used the hemline seam for placing my lace edge along and I mirrored both sides.
Bra making is definitely fiddly, I won’t lie…and I was rather tired whilst making this bra so I ended up doing quite a bit of unpicking! I felt like I needed to kind of get back into the groove of the bra making workflow. To help with remembering all the different stitch lengths and widths I jotted them down on a Post-it note.
You can read more about where I learned how to make bras and see all of my resources in my previous bra making posts, but suffice to say the techniques all came flooding back to me eventually and I’ve gotta say that this mint bra is the best and most well-fitting bra that I’ve ever had. Of course, I had to make some matching underwear and for this, I used and adapted the Binky pattern by Evie La Luve. The main fabric is a bamboo/cotton/lycra blend and is lovely to wear. As you can see, I prefer good bum coverage and a rise that finishes just below my belly button. I don’t have the inclination to wear bloomin’ uncomfortable thongs! No thank you, lol!
Bra Making Adventures: The Devonshire Bra
Next up, I revisited the Devonshire pattern which I’d initially not been so keen on because the single seam didn’t give me a shape that I liked. However, I had some lovely embroidered lace tulle that came from Sew Wardrobe and I wanted to showcase the design without cutting across it with a horizontal cup seam.
I made a couple of toiles that I basted into a frame and after shifting the vertical seam a bit and adding some tiny soft gathers at the wire-line I was able to redistribute the fullness for a shape I like better.
I lined the lace cups with two layers of soft tricot liner in a delicate pink shade and I actually sewed the cups into the Boylston frame that I know works well for me. Oh, and I forgot to add that I changed the shape of the bra band at the back for a higher up-sweeping shape that helps to control any wayward underarm/side-back ‘fluff’ that I might have, lol.
I like this design, but not quite as much as the Boylston. I think that f I try it again I might change the small gathers into two small, short darts instead and I might remove some of the fullness because I’m getting a little bit too much lower cup volume and it needs to be pushed up a bit. Having said that though, it’s very comfy and oh, so pretty to wear.
Again, I made matching undies and used some leftover lace for side panels. I love the idea of a matching set. The bamboo blend jersey for this set came from Truro fabrics and the white for the other set came from Raystitch.
I’m so pleased that I revisited bra making and I feel like all I need are these two patterns to work from and to keep me going on my lingerie journey. I have no desire to get into trying out lots of other designs because all I want is a bra that fits that I can make on-repeat in different fabrics. I’m planning on trying out the adapted Devonshire with a bra foam liner and a jersey knit overlay to emulate a tee shirt bra style. I’ve already started on one so I hope I can get the effect that I want with it. Stay tuned for an updated post at some point.
In the meantime, I have three more pretty lace fabrics and all the extras for some more matching sets. Very soon my undies drawer is going to be a thing of beauty 🙂
I hope you enjoyed this little bra making update and feel free to ask questions in the comments.
See you soon!
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