I’ve been having twin-needle fun making my embellished sweatshirt using Grasser 862. It’s the second time I’ve sewn this pattern (see the first here). My first version in blush pink pretty much followed the original centre panel design but you know I love to tinker with a pattern and ever since my blush pink one I wanted another in winter white.
Once again I got my sweatshirt fabric from Calico Laine. It’s a cotton/poly blend fleece-backed fabric and is beautifully soft and bouncy. Very warm and cosy too.
So on to the pattern, Grasser 862, has four possible combinations of design, there’s a hood option as well as welted sleeves and hem. Oh, and there is a kangaroo pocket option well but I left it off as I didn’t want the added bulk. I adored the big collar of my first iteration in blush so I went with that again. It’s a really well-drafted pattern and has the perfect amount of ease for me. My main adjustment was to just add more of a defined bustline and more shape over my bust by altering the side front panels. I pleated out a little dart shape and then shaved a bit off the back length to get the sides to match (it was plenty long enough).
You can read more about my adjustments and pattern size in the post about my first version of this top linked above.
Overall this pattern is a straightforward sew apart from the extra stitching on the front panel (of course, you could omit the stitching feature completely if you want it plain). As I said earlier, for my first one I just did the diamond design of twin-needle stitching but I wanted to do something a bit different for this version.
I wanted my twin-needle stitching to have more oomph and to achieve it I used a 4mm twin-needle and deliberately let the stitching ‘tunnel’…to get it to do that I didn’t shorten my stitch length (I used about 3-3.5 length) and I slightly loosened the main tension.
I decided to do ‘wiggly squares’ for want of a better term!
First of all, I marked the pattern on my fabric quite roughly. I used a water-erasable pen that I tested first to make sure that it really was water-erasable. Then with my walking foot fitted I simply followed the lines as best I could. It didn’t matter if the lines ended up not following my markings too closely because I wanted a more freehand effect.
I couldn’t be more pleased with how the front panel looks. It was so fun to do and less nerve-wracking than having to form precise and evenly spaced lines. Once the stitching was done I placed the pattern piece over my fabric to make sure the stitching hadn’t pulled it out of shape or made it shrink up. I had deliberately cut it a little bigger just in case.
This whole project was very enjoyable from start to finish…love those sorts of makes don’t you? I used my overlocker to sew all of the seams so it was pretty quick to do and those centre panels only took 20mins each to embellish. Overall, I’m really, really pleased with my top and it goes with tons of other pieces in my wardrobe.
Do you feel tempted to try some decorative twin-needling? Let me know in the comments.
Thanks for reading, see you soon!