Today’s blog post highlights the old saying “never say never” because this blush pink sweatshirt using Grasser 862 is actually my first ever sweatshirt… yes you read that correctly, my first ever. To be honest, a basic raglan-sleeved, round-necked, welted sweatshirt is something that never appealed to me in the slightest. Dare I say that I always found them a bit boring (sorry about using the ‘b’ word!), so it took a special design to convince me otherwise. This sweatshirt design is so unique with the lovely face-framing collar, the princess seams and the fabulous quilt stitching detail, so I just had to try it 🙂
The fabric I’ve used is a lovely bouncy fleece-backed sweatshirting with a blend of 70% polyester and 30% cotton with a little mechanical stretch of about 10% width and maybe 25 to 30% vertical. I bought it from Calico Lane, though I originally saw something like it elsewhere which unfortunately was out of stock so after scouring the internet this turned out to be just what I was after.
Pattern Alterations For Grasser 862
For the pattern, I chose size 44 (Russian sizing) and my height range of 164cm to 170cm which turned out to be a good choice for fit. To get a little more bust shaping and avoid the top lifting up at the front, I did a small diagonal pleat about where a bust dart would be and then just shaved a little bit off the back hemline to get the sides to match. I also took out a bit of width from the front and back panels towards the necklines and I did the forward-shoulder adjustment. The sleeves were perfect and so was the shoulder width. At the hemline, I just made the overall back hemline dip a little bit less exaggerated.
There are 4 different combinations of design for this pattern with collar or hood options, different hem finishes and quilt stitching options. There are also kangaroo-style pockets in the side front seams but I didn’t put them in because extra bulk across my midsection is not the look that I’m after 🙂 Of course, I chose to do the quilt stitching feature because it looks so fabulous and you know how much I love a bit of decorative stitching.
I used a 2.5 mm twin stretch needle size 75 and marked the lines using a water-erasable pen. Actually, I didn’t start off using the pen…I started off by using a walking foot plus a quilt guide, however, once one line gets off-kilter using the quilt guide to follow that means all the other lines become off-kilter and I ended up doing quite a bit of unpicking so I ended up switching over to the water-erasable (or should that be water-erasable?) pen and I marked the lines with a ruler. This gave me the results that I wanted. I won’t lie it took me ages to do but I adore the finished effect. **Note that I tested the pen first and used it only lightly. I kept dabbing water on as I went and at the end of stitching, I dunked the pieces in water.
I absolutely love the huge collar and how it frames the face. When I put in the eyelets for the drawstring, I felt more experienced, especially after my previous attempt. I put a little square of the sweatshirt fabric at the back of each one and they went in easily. I ended up making my own drawstring though, because I couldn’t find a perfect colour match anywhere and to finish the ends off I bought some silver toggles from eBay.
I absolutely adore the luxe casual vibe of this top it’s just as I imagined it would turn out to be and more, so I’m looking forward to creating a few outfits around it and it fits in with my elevated casual style moniker.
Are you a fan of sweatshirts? Found any unusual designs lately? Let me know in the comments.
And with that, I’ll say see you soon with more sewing and style.
That’s lovely! I thought your quilting was machine made at first as it’s so even.
Author
Thank you, Catherine! I think swapping from the quilting guide to using a ruler and water-soluble market really helped me get those lines straight. I kept dabbing water over my stitching to get rid of the pen lines because I was terrified that if I left them too long they might not have come off but it was fine.
Lovely! I adore the quilting and the colour is fantastic 😍! Still haven’t tried any of the Russian patterns but after your beautiful lux sweatshirt I will have to put it on my list 😀. Always a pleasure and inspiration to read through your blog. Thank you.
Author
Thank you so much, Beatrice! You should give Grasser a try. I find them well-drafted and the instructions have photos for each step and apart from the occasional time where things are explained differently due to language differences they are really good to follow. If you do though, be sure to check the sizing tables well before choosing your preferred size.
Your Sweater is so beautiful. I love the fit and how it comes out. I would like to do the same bustfitting but I am not realy shure how to do it. Did you the diagonal pleat only in the side piece before cutting the fabric? Your quilting is perfect and the color suits you so well.
Author
Thank you, Claudia. That’s right, I just did the fold in the paper pattern before cutting because it being a separate side piece made it easier to just do that. Obviously, the side seam is now shorter so I just took a little off the back pieces because I wanted them shorter anyway. I must admit that this is a bit of a shortcut way of doing it, but when you’ve sewn for over 40 years it’s how I do things sometimes 🙂 By the way, I just added a photo of the fold in my pattern to the post above.
Love your sweatshirt Diane! The colour, shape and fabric all suit you to a T 🙂 I laughed reading that you had never before made a sweatshirt until this one. I did the very same this year. I had never made a sweatshirt before, then mysteriously I wanted to and I made several. My 2 favourites were the Talvikki by Named and the Neige sweatshirt by Deer and Doe. I will make them again loving the combination of cozy feel classy look. I love your “faux quilting” highlight down the centre! I will definitely pick up on this inspiration. I have the Tamarack by Grainline studio and although I love this jacket pattern I have no interest in actually quilting 🙂 Thanks for another fabulous post Diane.
Author
And thank you, Kathleen! We were both sweatshirt virgins until recently eh? 🙂 Both the Talvikki and Neige are lovely! A step up from the average sweatshirt, I think. Ooh, and let me know if you ever try a faux quilting look with topstitching.
Gorgeous “sweatshirt” (NOT really a sweatshirt ;-}, Diane!
Your alterations really enhance the fit, which is why it isn’t really a sweatshirt, despite the fabric. While it is a bit oversized for comfort and style, the fitting to your figure really elevates this sweater. The color really suits you and is fun with your grey/black leopard print bottoms!
That lipstick color looks wonderful on you, as well — really brings your face to life.
Thank you for showing the pattern alterations — really helpful!
I did vertical channel stitching on doubled sweatshirt fabric as a hem band for a highly-embroidered RTW sweatshirt I bought as a memento of a visit to a Universal Studios amusement park (needed to shorten the sweatshirt): it looks terrific, but channel stitching — faux ribbing — was a ton of work!
Author
When is a sweatshirt, not a sweatshirt? When it’s been Diane’d of course! Glad you like it, Joan, thank you! And I was thinking about lipstick (glad you like how it looks, by the way, I think it’s Blushing Nude by Clinique) and I think the pandemic is to blame…I often wore it before masks and I’ve got out of the habit so much that I just keep forgetting to put some on in non-mask settings.
I absolutely love how you dressed up sweatshirt fabric. I’m hesitant to put the time into making sweatshirts because I don’t normally wear them out unless walking dogs. :). This creation of yours is fabulous! I love your quilting idea. I also love you sharing what pattern this is because I love how it has the front and back panels to make it unique. Your such a wonderful seamstress and sewing inspiration. ❤️
Author
Ohhh, thank you for the kind words, Jodie! The only way I was ever going to have a sweatshirt was if it was a dressier one 🙂 I can’t seem to do really casual no matter how hard I try, lol! I’m so pleased that you enjoy the detail that I put in my posts…I like to write what I would prefer to read myself and I love to know and see details about how things are made.
Fabulous sweatshirt, as you say they need to be special to make them. Off to check out the pattern.
Author
Thank you, Sharon! I’m please you like it 🙂
What a delightful gaement! Love the fabric, color and quilting look. A winner for your wardrobe, I’m sure.
Author
Ohhh, thanks, Heather. For sure, it fits in well with a lot of my other pirces
This is just a fabulous sweater Diane! Love it ♥
Cheer, and have a wonderful weekend!
Author
That’s so lovely of you to say, thanks, Ellen! You have a lovely weekend too
I absolutely love this sweatshirt you’ve made! It is a proof that sweatshirts may actually be fancy and can make for an elaborate look. When I read you used a water soluble pen to mark the quilting lines, I was surprised. I somehow don’t trust them at all, and in this case, if the lines would not have disappeared from this gorgeous pink fabric, it would have made for a cringe worthy situation. But those pens apparently work, as your sweatshirt is absolutely perfect!
Author
Thank you so much, Giedre!
Ooh, I was vary wary of using the water erasable pen. I tested it first and then tried to use it as lightly as possible without making too much of a mark, then I kept dabbing water on afterwards. Right at the end as soon as I finished stitching I dunked the panel in water, squeezed out the excess in a towel and left it to dry before sewing it up.
I just edited my post to mention how I used the pen 🙂
Love this.. the quilting is fabulous. I have a very old piece of sweatshirt fabric however it doesn’t have any stretch. I’ll give it a go as it looks like it’s not too tight.
Author
Thank you, Vicki! Yes, it’s not an overly fitted top and you could always go up a size too.
Fabulous sweatshirt, if it can be called that, as it’s a certainly a big step up from the usual rather baggy sweatshirt. Love the quilting on the panels and you were certainly brave to use a water soluable pen to mark with as I have found they don’t always work as the marks come back! But marking this way is the only way to get those lines straight.
Author
Sorry, I’m late replying Christine. Thank you for the lovely words, so glad you love how my top looks 🙂
Yes, I was ultra wary about using that pen and made sure to soak the panels the minute I finished stitching to make sure the marks went.