So yes, I made a fully lined trench in the middle of a heatwave…what of it? Lol! In my defence, the soft delicious blush colour is quite Summery, don’t you think? And I’m already all prepared for when it cools down in September. I’m also certain that my lovely readers from the Southern Hemisphere will enjoy the inspiration for their cooler weather right now.
This drapey blush trench by BurdaStyle is number 120 from January 2018 and I’d had my eye on the pattern as soon as I saw it. I also bought the fabric soon afterwards (I was very keen!)…it’s a viscose/poly/lycra blend from My Fabrics and has a perfect amount of weight and drape for the unstructured design of the trench, plus it’s just the perfect tone of blush that I like…a bit pinky and a little warm in tone…love!
PS..other trench coats that I’ve made can be seen here
The stars aligned when I was faced with choosing a pattern for my July project for the Burdastyle blogger team that I belong to, I decided that I just had to make up the trench coat, even though we’re in the middle of one of the hottest Summers on record. I can’t deny that this trench pattern is a lot of PDF to stick together, but so worth it.
(Note: I was given the PDF pattern free of charge. All opinions are my own. Please see my disclosure policy here for more information)
Trench Pattern Sizing and Adjustments
I came to the conclusion by looking at the photo of the model on the website and taking a few measurements from the pattern that the style is a little on the roomy side. I wouldn’t say oversized though at all. I cut one size down from my usual 36/38 size and for me, it’s spot on. I have just the right amount of fullness and ease for my liking. For reference, I’m 36″ bust and 38″ hips and the finished width across the back at waist and armhole level is 22″. The fronts overlap without buttons.
The only alteration I did to the pattern was to accommodate my long upper back and slightly square forward shoulders. To do this I actually took length from the front armhole depth. I didn’t want to lengthen the back armhole because over recent months I’ve decided that I need a fairly shallow armscye and in fact need less depth at the front which then brings the shoulder seam forward nicely for my forward rolling shoulders (blimey…It sounds like I’m Quasimodo!). As you can see on the photo, I folded out 1.5cm of depth all the way across the front halfway down the raglan and then on the front sleeve I folded the same out where the seams meet at the raglan but tapering off to nothing where the front and back sleeve meet at the shoulder line. This adjustment worked a treat and I’ve never had such a comfy well-balanced garment that hangs nicely. So it seems that I have found my Holy Grail of alterations to suit my body shape…result! I have two dresses that need armscye depth removing from the front and it will make them super comfy…I’ll “add it to the list” as my hubby will say.
*the dotted horizontal lines show the amount I removed:
Instructions, Making etc.
The BurdaStyle website describes this pattern as an Advanced rating and I’d be inclined to agree. There is a lot of work in this coat and you have a properly constructed collar and revere to deal with. The instructions are as usual, all written and are, for the most part, not to bad to follow as long as you read carefully a couple of times. I’m familiar already with the construction methods used, so I must admit to barely glancing at them. I read through once and then went my own sweet way.
So, I’ve already mentioned my fabric, but this is a fully lined coat and I used a lovely acetate blended lining which was a perfect match and came from Stone Fabrics. There’s fairly minimal interfacing, as this is a more unstructured style of coat, therefore just front facings and collar are interfaced. The interfacing I used is a woven rayon blend weft insertion type called ‘Perfect Fuse Medium’ by Palmer Pletsch (sadly not available in the UK any more, though might be worth trying eBay etc) this one from Tailorouse might be a good alternative. I pre-shrunk it by soaking in warm water for 15 mins. The buttons were from my mum’s button stash and I ordered the leather buckles from a new to me shop called Kleins (currently shut for refurbishment)
I changed construction in just a couple of places. The main one was the undercollar. The under-collar pattern is a shade smaller in width than the top collar which is fab and proves how well-drafted Burda patterns are. But…I always like my under collars to be cut on the bias to enable a nice curve to mould into the collar roll. I added a centre back seam to my undercollar section and cut the two halves on the bias. Then I constructed the collar and rever as per instructions.
The back storm flap is supposed to be double fabric with a fold at the lower edge. I wondered if it might be bulky so I just did a 2” deep hem which I stitched with a blind hem…and the front flap I lined with my lightweight lining instead of double fabric…
Blush Trench by BurdaStyle: Designer Extras
I decided to add a few extra design elements to my coat. The belt has four rows of topstitching along with it and two D rings. I also added topstitching around the collar and down each front for a crisp edge. I dislike bouncy edges that don’t lie flat and my fabric wouldn’t press like crisp cotton or wool would, so the topstitching adds a more professional finish…
By the way, talking of my belt…it was my first time at inserting eyelets. What an experience…I literally held my breath with concentration. I managed to position them well but the metal on the back didn’t roll down into neat rings on one or two of them and they split a little but they look fab on the front, so let’s just not mention the back again eh? Hehe.
Another finishing touch that I tried for the first time was to add a flat binding insert between lining and facing. See here:
And finally, I added a nice little hanging chain with loops to the back neck.
This was a slow project. I was slowed down partly by the ongoing heatwave, but I also wanted to take my time and get a lovely finish to my coat. I’m glad I didn’t rush. It was worth the effort and I love the end result.
I don’t often sew out of season, Come to think of it I think this may be a first, but I think it was a smart move as I’m good and ready for the cooler weather when it inevitably arrives.
What about you? Are you a sew out-of-season sort of person or are you a spur of the moment in-the-season sewer?
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I am speechless! this is the perfect trench, from color to cut to details 😍
That’s so lovely of you to say, Sasha. Thanks so much!
Wow! I love the details in this! That pocket is fabulous! I have a coat I started last year and need to get back to before fall hits! 🙈
Thank you! I’m loving the origami type pocket too. You’re not alone in having a UFO coat…I have a jacket still in bits in a bag somewhere too! I’m sure we can both pick up where we left off eh?
I first saw this on IG and was immediately smitten. I’m so glad to have found your blog with the additional photos and details. Your work is both stunning and inspiring. Thank you so much for all the details you provide about your construction methods and resources for even more info. I’m now off to shamelessly attempt a duplicate such a fabulous make! Beautiful work, Diane!
Hi Elaine, it’s lovely to have you here. Glad you found me! Thanks for the lovely words… I’m so pleased that you like my coat. Enjoy sewing your version x
Oh. My. Goodness. Your coat is AMAZING!!!!! It looks like a Burberry trench coat, and I saw one of those in a fancy shop for £1300!!! I love the style, and the belt is fantastic. Happy wearing!!
Aww, wow, thanks Lynne! xx
Such a gorgeous trench Diane!
Beautiful! Love the whole outfit (and shoes).
Ah, thank you Vicki…and for the shoe love 🙂
I love this coat! I want one too now 😀 The color is gorgeous as well.
I don’t sew out of season in general, although there’s a pair of jeans I just finished that feel very out of season in the current 25-30 degrees weather in Norway 😀
Thanks, Maria x. Ooh go for it, I bet you would look great in this coat style. Goodness, hot in Norway too? I can’t remember when I last wore jeans because the heat has lasted so long. I’m sure you will eventually get plenty of wear out of your jeans in the Autumn.
Simply stunning, and something I aspire to make although my skills will have to improve significantly before I even try! Thank you for such a detailed description.
That’s lovely of you to say, Helen, thank you! As for improving skills, all I can say is keep at it…practice and experiment with different fabrics. Do samples first of new techniques too. I did a small sample of the binding insertion that I put next to the lining and it helped me understand the process. xx
This is my favourite Diane! I would love it! That colour and all the details absolutely fabulous.
Ahh, thank you so much Mags. I can easily see you in this style of coat 🙂
Outstanding work Diane. Love the style, details and colour. A brilliant addition to your wardrobe.
Thanks so much, Manju! x
This really is a beautiful coat. And the pockets are just gorgeous. You are lucky to be able to find fabrics that work for this sort of style. And certainly not the sort of style you want to rush the sewing with – this is such a classic, so it needs to be finished nicely. As for your question about sewing and seasons – mostly in season, but at a certain point I start getting ready for the next season.
Thanks for the lovely words Sarah Liz. You’re right, some things can’t be rushed, I think my coat was a labour of love. About sewing in season…absolutely…at some point I start getting ready for the next too.
Lovely coat, and you are so brave to make it during a heat wave! Love your extra details and the color is lovely on you! I tend to sew in season myself, as I like to wear my makes as soon as they’re finished.
Thank you, Linda. I think I’m a mostly sew in season person too, but then occasionally I’m too slow to get things made for the season I’m in and I end up waiting sooooo long before I can wear it. Perhaps the trick is to do quick in-season projects towards the end of a season, to get them done it time 🙂
Wow Diane!! This gorgeous trench really showcases your superb sewing skills. 🙂
That’s so lovely of you to say Lisa, thank you!
What an adorable coat! I really love it on you. Thanks for the great review. Very well done!
Ahh, thank you Eli! xx
Your trench is perfect! The color, the details , the length , everything! So beautiful! And yes, is great to take time for special projects, I want to make a new coat like Right Now !! 🙂 Regards, Camelia
Thank you, Camelia. And enjoy your coat making!
The sizing on Burda’s website for this pattern is 72-88, which is for tall girls. Do you normally sew with their Miss sizing or are you quite tall? Your work is so beautiful! Fabulous choice of fabric, color and style.
Hi Julie, thank you! Right, sizing…I shortened my coat by about 1.5″ and it measures 44″ from back neck to hem. I’m 5’5.5″ tall. Hope this helps 🙂 xx
Thank you. All of your sizing and construction details including the measurements and adjustments are very helpful.
You are so clever, very impressive work!
Thank you, Monika! xx
You’ve made a beautiful trench coat, Diane, something to be immensely proud of. I shall earmark this pattern for myself and put it on my seemingly endless list.
Thank you, Chris x. I’m sure you will love this pattern.
So beautiful! That picture of it inside the collar with the binding finish and little chain is simply amazing! Love everything about this trench – the style, the colour, the fit – everything is exquisite. You’re so right too about the more you put into sewing yourself a garment, the more you love the it when it’s done. It will delight you no end for years to come to slip your arms into this beautiful coat 🙂
Thanks, Kathleen. I agree it’s like you put your heart and soul into a make. It’s why I find it hard to part with garments when they no longer work for my style, or don’t fit. I’m hoping this coat will be timeless…
This is stunning! All of your designer details enhance this trench coat.
Thanks so much, Tammy!
Stunningly beautiful. I am in awe of the quality and detail of your work. Thank you for sharing, it encourages me to slow down and perfect the details.
Thank you Pat, That’s a lovely thing to say. I think the hot weather played its part. I can never think or work as fast so I took great care with each step and I’m glad I did.
This is one of the nicest trenches I’ve seen. I adore the colour and some of the design features, and your sewing is so professional. An absolutely brilliant make Diane.
Thanks, Sue, it was an enjoyable project and I’m thrilled to hear how much you like it xx
I am so happy to have found your blog (through the XRTW group), and this coat is the stuff of dreams! Absolutely beautiful, classic and very chic. I am of the opinion that one can never have too many coats, so of course it makes perfect sense to sew them year round!
Thanks, Karen, I’m so glad you found my blog too. Welcome! I agree…one can never have too many coats…or jackets. I love to make them!
Oh that’s beautiful. Love the styling too; those windowpane trousers!
Thanks so much, Catherine…and for stopping by my blog x Glad you like how I styled my coat…those trousers are one of my favourite pairs.
This is a gorgeous make and you can tell you took your time adding all of the beautiful details!
Thank you Carolyn! After a long project like this I feel the need for something a little simpler for contrast 🙂
I have no words! This trench it absolutely stunning! Fabulous work!
Thank you so much dear Ellen! xx
Your sewing skills are superb! This is beautiful. I’m curious– how much did this cost you to make (not including labor time) vs. how much you think it may cost in a store?
Thank you! Ooh gosh, I can’t remember the cost of some items but I know the rough costs. I’m guessing around £75-ish for fabric, lining, interfacing, buckles, eyelets and thread. In a store? Hmmm a few hundred I imagine.
I like yours better: https://www.ivy-oak.com/shop/trenchcoat-layering-dusty-blush/
Thanks Sarah! x
I am not surprised you love the end result as this is beautiful. Beautifully sewn and you look beautiful in it and I am sure you will get a lot of wear out of it when the cooler weather arrives.
You’re very kind, thanks Chris. I’m so pleased you like my coat x
Your trench is just stunning from fabric chosen to topstitching to eyelet placement. Your description of details is so helpful ; you’re a good sharer! The color is delightful and perfect for several seasons. I am a first time visitor to your blog and I am off to see your other gems. Thanks for such a in detail review.
Hi Fran, and welcome to my blog! Thanks so much for your lovely comment. Feel free to stay around and have a read 🙂