As promised, here is the second of two posts covering the saga of my tailored tartan jacket. But if you’re standing there scratching you’re head wondering what the heck I’m on about here is part 1 for your delight and delectation….you’re welcome 🙂
Cutting A Lining For My Tailored Jacket
Well, I left you with a cliffhanger at the end of my first post when I’d just finished constructing the body of my jacket. So then I moved on to the lining. I had no pattern pieces for it so had to work it out for myself and unfortunately, I made a crucial error on the front piece… more on that in a while though…
So when you cut a lining pattern the armholes are always cut a little bit higher, the sleeve head is cut slightly shallower in it’s depth and the sleeve width is usually a little bit narrower. I also always add a centre-back folded pleat in the lining which gives you room to move easily across your shoulders.
It Was Meant To Be…
That error then…well, it was regarding the front section that attaches to the front jacket facing. I’d cut it waayyyy too narrow (insert sad face emoji here) however, some things are meant to be. You see, the olive-coloured shiny viscose lining that I’d already cut out showed every single iron indentation when I pressed it and frankly it just looked messy. I looked in my stash and found a lovely length of olive-brown acetate-blend lining with woven gold spots on that was probably meant for lining some leather jackets which are on my very long to-do list. There was enough length for my tartan jacket with plenty left over, hurray! And it turns out that the spotty lining is so much nicer in quality too, result!
I cut that naughty troublesome front piece much wider and I was soon back on track. Then I decided that I wanted to make the insides extra pretty so I thought why not add a coloured insert between the fabric and lining. I chose a pink coloured heavyweight lining remnant to match the pink lines in the Tartan. Very snazzy don’t you think?
(I’ll be covering how I did the colourful insertion in next week’s post with a tutorial)
I didn’t bag out the whole lining. Instead, I machined around the fronts and the back neck and I finished the back hem and sleeve hems by hand. Just before the final hand stitching though, I went up inside the jacket and attached the lining at the armhole by the shoulders and the armpits with crocheted thread loops. It stops the lining from shifting about.
Little Details Make All The Difference
Oh, and I made myself a fancy label by pulling out some threads around a square of tartan fabric to make fringing and sewed my woven label on top. Check this out 🙂
Finishing touches were buttonholes and buttons plus a few stabilising stitches to anchor the lapels to the top collar and also underneath the front bust pleats to help them to lie properly.
A final good press all over and that’s it, done! And I love it!
It’s such a comfortable jacket to wear and fits me like a glove. It was a verrrry long project but so worth the long slog and very satisfying too. Probably my proudest make so far.
Of course, I couldn’t resist styling it with my favourite green suede boots and a column of ivory and stone underneath to let the jacket be the star. I imagine I’ll also style it with denim jeans and ankle boots. I also have a pink sweater that matches the lines in the tartan. How else would you style it?
I’ll leave you with more photos to pour over and I’ll be back in a few days with that tutorial that I promised.
Catch you next week!
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