I stepped a little out of my comfort zone when I chose this design, but I loved that I could apply what I discovered about my personal style in last week’s post and make it ‘my own’ and I love how this bow detail top by Sistermag Patterns turned out. This is the 50-3 Cedar Grove top from Sistermag and I want to thank them for contacting me to collaborate with them. I got to choose a design from the new collection and was intrigued by the playful quality and the hint of 60s styling in this top.
The instructions suggest using woven fabrics with a bit of structure like quilting-weight cotton (crisp poplin or linen would work too). It’s ideal for warmer Autumn days but as it’s already been getting pretty cold here I envisaged the top being worn as an over-top that I could pop on over blouses or skinny sweaters and I wanted mine to have a nice bit of structure, so I’ve moved away from the suggested fabrics and used a soft midweight corduroy. I’d love to try the design in linen for the Spring though.
The pattern spans a generous size range of 34 to 50 (finished bust measurements 38.9-50.1 inches). I cut a size 38 and made a mock-up but ended up using the front pattern of size 36 with the 38 back as it proved just a little wide across the front for me. I did my usual forward shoulder adjustment, I bought the shoulder width in about a half inch and took a bit over an inch off the length. Oh, and I had to move the bust dart down a bit (the ‘girls’ are somewhat lower these days, hehe).
I’m thrilled with the fit of this top. The front has a bust dart on one side, and at the side with the bow, the dart has been manipulated up to the shoulder into a pleat. I love that there are tiny darts at the back armholes to avoid gaping and that there are back-neck darts, too. I usually end up having to alter patterns and add my own darts to them, but not this time. It fits me perfectly, so bravo to the pattern drafting and attention to detail!
This pattern is suited to an intermediate sewer. The instructions have diagrams for each step and are fine, but I struggled a little to understand the section for the shoulder opening on the side where the bow goes. As long as you line up the markings for the popper/button and lap the back over the front shoulder you should be ok. There’s an optional pocket for the opposite side to the bow and I reckon you could sew up a version with just the pocket on for a different look. There’s no diagram for the pocket stage though, only written instructions, but it’s a double-layer flap and a pocket piece with a stitched pleat, so straightforward to sew.
The top went together quite quickly really. I sewed the suggested bias binding finish for the neck and armholes, but I used quilting cotton in a fun pineapple print for mine rather than the corduroy. It’s nice seeing the little pop of colour on the inside 🙂 .
When it came to making the bow, I did move away from the instructions out of necessity. Using my corduroy would have been too bulky in my fabric and if you know me you also know I’m not normally a floofy bow kind of person. My solution was to make my bow in two separate pieces using only one fabric layer making it a bit flatter but more structured looking. To reduce a bit more bulk I used some grosgrain ribbon for the bow loop and then decided to trim the bow with it too.
This has turned out to be such a fun make. I like the quirky playful style and the colour that I chose isn’t one I’ve worn before either but I like that too 🙂 I’ve tried the top on with slim-fit jeans as well as wide-leg ones and at this length, it works well with both. I was wearing my print blouse with the houses on when making the top and it works over that too. I also have fitted jersey tops that will layer underneath so It’ll be quite versatile.
Have you tried any new-to-you styles lately? Let me know in the comments. And in the meantime, I’m debating whether to sew a jersey top, a viscose blouse, some cream corduroy wide-leg jeans, or some skinny pants… Ooh decisions, decisions 🙂
See you soon!
Hi Diane!
I need to read your updated style analysis post but I love the interesting features of this pattern and your bow modifications. It seems sized for better use as an overblouse or ‘vest’ in U.S. terminology (“waistcoat” in British English?): you have a bit of extra circumference.
I love how you made the bow more appropriate for your corduroy, and less overtly feminine: the top’s style comes together very well with your changes to a “tailored flat bow”. Also, more interesting and well-considered to do a thin bias facing in cotton!
Author
Thank you so much, Joan! Yeah, I think a vest is a great name for this garment and I’m glad you like my tweaks to add my style preferences.