So yes, I made a fully lined trench in the middle of a heatwave…what of it? Lol! In my defence, the soft delicious blush colour is quite Summery, don’t you think? And I’m already all prepared for when it cools down in September. I’m also certain that my lovely readers from the Southern Hemisphere will enjoy the inspiration for their cooler weather right now.
This trench coat is number 120 from January 2018 and I’d had my eye on the pattern as soon as I saw it. I also bought the fabric soon afterwards (I was very keen!)…it’s a viscose/poly/lycra blend from My Fabrics and has a perfect amount of weight and drape for the unstructured design of the trench, plus it’s just the perfect tone of blush that I like…a bit pinky and a little warm in tone…love!
PS..other trench coats that I’ve made can be seen here
The stars aligned when I was faced with choosing a pattern for my July project for the Burdastyle blogger team that I belong to, I decided that I just had to make up the trench coat, even though we’re in the middle of one of the hottest Summers on record. And so I was gifted the PDF pattern (all opinions are my own). I can’t deny that it’s a lot of PDF to stick together, but so worth it.
Sizing and Adjustments
I came to the conclusion by looking at the photo of the model on the website and taking a few measurements from the pattern that the style is a little on the roomy side. I wouldn’t say oversized though at all. I cut one size down from my usual 36/38 size and for me, it’s spot on. I have just the right amount of fullness and ease for my liking. For reference, I’m 36″ bust and 38″ hips and the finished width across the back at waist and armhole level is 22″. The fronts overlap without buttons.
The only alteration I did to the pattern was to accommodate my long upper back and slightly square forward shoulders. To do this I actually took length from the front armhole depth. I didn’t want to lengthen the back armhole because over recent months I’ve decided that I need a fairly shallow armscye and in fact need less depth at the front which then brings the shoulder seam forward nicely for my forward rolling shoulders (blimey…It sounds like I’m Quasimodo!). As you can see on the photo, I folded out 1.5cm of depth all the way across the front halfway down the raglan and then on the front sleeve I folded the same out where the seams meet at the raglan but tapering off to nothing where the front and back sleeve meet at the shoulder line. This adjustment worked a treat and I’ve never had such a comfy well-balanced garment that hangs nicely. So it seems that I have found my Holy Grail of alterations to suit my body shape…result! I have two dresses that need armscye depth removing from the front and it will make them super comfy…I’ll “add it to the list” as my hubby will say.
*the dotted horizontal lines show the amount I removed:
Instructions, Making etc.
The BurdaStyle website describes this pattern as an Advanced rating and I’d be inclined to agree. There is a lot of work in this coat and you have a properly constructed collar and revere to deal with. The instructions are as usual, all written and are for the most part, not to bad to follow as long as you read carefully a couple of times. I’m familiar already with the construction methods used, so I must admit to barely glancing at them. I read through once and then went my own sweet way.
So, I’ve already mentioned my fabric, but this is a fully lined coat and I used a lovely acetate blended lining which was a perfect match and came from Stone Fabrics. There’s fairly minimal interfacing, as this is a more unstructured style of coat, therefore just front facings and collar are interfaced. The interfacing I used is a woven rayon blend weft insertion type called Perfect Fuse Medium and got it from Sew Direct. I pre-shrunk it by soaking in warm water for 15 mins. The buttons were from my mum’s button stash and I ordered the leather buckles from a new to me shop called Kleins.
I changed construction in just a couple of places. The main one was the undercollar. The under collar pattern is a shade smaller in width than the top collar which is fab and proves how well drafted Burda patterns are. But…I always like my under collars to be cut on the bias to enable a nice curve to mould into the collar roll. I added a centre back seam to my undercollar section and cut the two halves on the bias. Then I constructed the collar and rever as per instructions.
The back storm flap is supposed to be double fabric with a fold at the lower edge. I wondered if it might be bulky so I just did a 2” deep hem which I stitched with a blind hem…and the front flap I lined with my lightweight lining instead of double fabric…
I decided to add a few extra designer elements to my coat. The belt has four rows of topstitching along it and two D rings. I also added topstitching around the collar and down each front for a crisp edge. I dislike bouncy edges that don’t lie flat and my fabric wouldn’t press like a crisp cotton or wool would, so the topstitching adds a more professional finish..
By the way, talking of my belt…it was my first time at inserting eyelets. What an experience…I literally held my breath with concentration. I managed to position them well but the metal on the back didn’t roll down into neat rings on one or two of them and they split a little but they look fab on the front, so let’s just not mention the back again eh? Hehe.
Another finishing touch that I tried for the first time was to add a flat binding insert between lining and facing. See here:
To read about how to do this finish and the technique I followed check out this post on BCN unique blog written by Paco Peralta (you’ll need to use Google translate). I love this technique and I’ll definitely use it again. Finally, I added a nice little hanging chain with loops to the back neck.
This was a slow project. I was slowed down partly by the ongoing heatwave, but I also wanted to take my time and get a lovely finish to my coat. I’m glad I didn’t rush. It was worth the effort and I love the end result.
I don’t often sew out of season, Come to think of it I think this may be a first, but I think it was a smart move as I’m good and ready for the cooler weather when it inevitably arrives.
What about you? Are you a sew out-of-season sort of person or are you a spur of the moment in-the-season sewer?
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