Some of you might be familiar with the brand Brindille and Twig who specialise in childrens wear PDF patterns (with a 14-year-old son who towers over me, I wasn’t familiar with the brand as I’m long past needing to buy kiddies wear, hehe) Well, not too long ago they started a branch of B&T called Street Style Patterns that comprises easy going casual clothes for women and a few weeks ago I was approached by Brindille Twig to ask if I would like to try out their latest release of a new bomber jacket pattern and to tell you all about it. I already have one bomber jacket in my wardrobe (seen briefly in this post) and was definitely in the market for another short casual jacket to wear with jeans and wide-leg pants or culottes so I happily said yes.
***Full disclosure: I was given the pattern and necessary haberdashery needed to complete the project, therefore this is a sponsored post***. I already had the light grey fabric in my stash for this jacket.
Bomber jacket from Street Style patterns: About the pattern
So firstly, a quick word about this intermediate skill level pdf pattern. You have the options for A4 or A0 printing as well as the option to deselect layers of sizes so you can just print the size you need or just two sizes so that you can grade between them. The size range goes from XS to XXL going from bust 33.5” to 43” and there are is also a handy’ Finished Measurements’ chart too.
The jacket is unlined and has 11 pattern pieces in all which include all of the ribbing sections, facing, pocket bags and pocket welts. It’s a raglan style with a relaxed fit and finishes at high hip level.
The instructions for sewing up the jacket have a lot of photographs and are really well set out and clear. There is also a Youtube video that you can watch to help with the pocket welts.
My light stone-grey fabric came from Ditto Fabrics nearly two years ago. I’m unsure of the exact blend but I do know that it’s wool and a smidge of lycra and maybe a tiny bit of polyester and it’s possibly some kind of suiting fabric. I prewashed it without any problems. My ribbing came from Neotrims and is a cotton blend with lycra. When it arrived I was disappointed by the fact that it wasn’t a great match with my fabric…too dark, unfortunately. A bowl of diluted bleach came to the rescue though and after two long soaks, the colour was faded to a pretty good match, result!
I cut my jacket on a size S and there are ¼” seam allowances included. I’m assuming this narrow allowance is because you could sew the jacket entirely on an overlocker threaded up with 4 threads. I would suggest a fairly wide cutting width to get the correct allowance.The first stage of sewing up is to make the double welted pockets. They aren’t as scary as you think to sew. There are detailed photos of each step and as I mentioned before there’s also a Youtube video. The trick is to mark out the pocket lines very accurately and make sure to cut the welt bands accurately too so that the welt pieces stay an even width. Also don’t be afraid to slash well into the corners and try adding a small dab of Fray Check into the corners to prevent unravelling.
Now, the jacket has raglan sleeves and my square, fairly broad, forward rolling shoulders don’t often get on very well with raglan styles. I personally prefer a centre seam going down the full length of a raglan sleeve and these were one piece. I think if you made this pattern in a knit fabric like a velvet jersey or thick ponte then you would probably be fine, but I was using a woven with minimal stretch so my solution was to adapt the top part of the raglan and make a shoulder dart down the centre. I intend to write a blog post about the fit adjustment I do for my type of shoulder shape so I’ll try to do that in the next two weeks and I’ll include how I changed this pattern, as well as how I alter standard set-in sleeves/shoulders… so stay tuned 🙂
Ok, so you knew this was coming, didn’t you? I simply can’t make a pattern without adding something unique and a bit creative. This was no exception…I can’t help myself!
I think I’d seen something somewhere on my usual Pinterest browsing and it must have stuck in my subconscious. Anyway, I decided to add a shaped yoke that was simply applied to the upper back. It’s basically a ‘v’ shaped piece of fabric laid on top and decorated with lines of topstitching. The next sequence of photos shows the shape of the extra pattern piece that I made and as you can see I folded in the edges and created a neat corner by trimming off the excess at the point and folding both sides in.
- Lay this piece of fabric in position and baste it in place along the edges. Topstitch along the edge, pivoting at the corner.
- Next, I marked the vertical centre line with some basting. This is to give you an accurate pivot point for each row of stitching.
- I then marked evenly spaced lines using a ruler and either chalk or Frixion pen or whatever marking tool you prefer. Stitch along each line very carefully pivoting at the centre for a perfect corner. I used a slightly darker thread so that my lines show up. You could even use a complete contrast shade of thread if you wish.
I think it looks quite effective and adds a fun touch.
Assembling the body and sleeves
After I inserted the zip and facings into the fronts the rest of the jacket goes together fairly easily by first stitching the raglan seams and then the side seams and underarms all in one go.
The final stage is to add the knit ribbing cuffs welt and collar. As long as you stretch evenly and pin well it’s not too tricky and once again there are detailed photos of each step.
I’m really happy with my new casual bomber jacket from Street Style Patterns. You know, I think when I first bought this grey fabric I think I was intending to sew some kind of blazer, but I know I’ll get so much more wear out of this style jacket because I love how I can dress it up or down. For a more casual look I can wear pale wash boyfriend jeans and sneakers or for a dressier look, I could wear wide leg trousers or culottes with it. Versatile eh?
Thanks so much for stopping by and reading. I had fun making this pattern and thanks to Brindille and Twig for the collaboration. See you soon! x
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