Pattern-Hacked Burda 114 08/2016

Pattern-Hacked Burda 114 08/2016

I love this pattern so much that I’ve made it again! This is my pattern hacked Burda 114 08/2016 which I first made in leopard print wool ( you can see it here).  My first version has already had a lot of wear. I can easily layer under it with bulky sweaters and it’s for that very reason that I craved another coat like it. 

The main drawback with the original style coat is that you do need a high-neck sweater or a big scarf in the neckline because of the low-cut collar, plus there are no buttons…I’ve actually added a waistline tab to my leopard version which holds the front together nicely.

For my new and updated design, I found a great solution for a cold neck and chest…

Some of you might remember when DP Studio brought out an overcoat pattern with a front zippered insert that went down inside the front collar area. Here’s a photo to jog your memory and show you the inspiration for my coat. I think it’s a brilliant idea to add warmth. 

DP Studio Le 809

Talking of warmth I lined my original leopard coat using a regular lining quilted onto some batting. For this second version, I’ve gone one step further by using a quilted coating for the main body. I bought this lovely Terracotta fabric from Active Fabrics (it doesn’t appear to be on their website anymore). An added bonus is that it’s water-resistant due to a thin rubber membrane on the reverse. How cool is that?

Let’s get into the nitty gritty of my make… So because I’d already done the fit adjustments to the pattern I knew that it would fit me just fine and the only change is to add an inch to the length.

I really took my time cutting everything out to make sure I got identical quilt designs on each front piece, each collar piece and each sleeve. I’ve added extra interest by cutting the yoke, pocket flaps, tabs and back belt along the straight orientation of the stitching lines.

After sewing up the main seams I trimmed the batting away from the seam allowance to reduce bulk then opened them up and stitched either side. The main reason for this is that I can’t press the fabric much as it really doesn’t like heat. Both the rubber backing and the batting shrivel up easily, so the only way that I could press was with a low heat setting, a double-folded press cloth and gentle pressure. 

Once I’d completed the body it was time to tackle the insert. I made a mock-up of it and pinned it into my leopard coat just to get an idea of how it would work. You see, I wanted to attach it within the seam where the front-facing joins onto the lining fabric. It took quite a bit of faffing and fine-tuning but eventually, I got the right width and position.

This is the piece before it was sewn in.

For extra cosiness, I lined the body of my jacket with fleece from Minerva and the sleeves are lined with a lining remnant found in my stash. 

Pattern-Hacked Burda 114 08/2016

I needed to put anchoring stitches here and there to hold everything in place around all the facing and the insert but now everything stays put really nicely.

Pattern-Hacked Burda 114 08/2016
Pattern-Hacked Burda 114 08/2016
Pattern-Hacked Burda 114 08/2016

 I’m absolutely thrilled with how this jacket turned out. I think I  managed to put my original idea into practice and it’s so cosy and warm. I love the colour too as it’s very uplifting and fun for Winter.

PS: I don’t know if you’ve joined in on Instagram too, but this was my entry for #sewtogetherforwinter hosted by @crafting_slovak @sewing_in_spain and @sewsarahsmith on Instagram. There are still a few days left if you want to take part.

Hope you like my new jacket and I’ll see you soon.

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  1. Christine
    November 21, 2022 / 9:07 pm

    What a glorious coat. Not only practical but stylish as well. You are such a genius making the style work with that insert. Fabulous.

    • Diane
      November 22, 2022 / 11:52 am

      Thank you so much, Christine!

  2. Giedre
    November 20, 2022 / 2:56 pm

    I liked your front closure solution very much, it’s really clever. I’ll save your post on IG fir future reference as it is really an excellent idea to deal with too open fronts of coats. It is a glorious coat you made here, Diane! I liked leopard version very much too, so this one is one level up with this smart closure.

    • Diane
      November 20, 2022 / 5:01 pm

      You’re very kind to say that, Giedre. Thank you!

  3. November 19, 2022 / 11:44 pm

    Love all the details on your jacket including your thoughtful placement of the quilted pattern. I recently purchased some quilted fabrics to make puffer jacket for hubby and me but the quilting is not as lovely as your fabric’s!

    • Diane
      November 20, 2022 / 11:51 am

      Thank you so much, Maria! I think I struck lucky with this fabric. It must have been some end-of-line or deadstock because a couple of days after I bought it, it vanished from the website.

  4. Julia
    November 19, 2022 / 8:15 pm

    Your work is a real inspiration. Thank you for showing us what you do.

    • Diane
      November 20, 2022 / 11:48 am

      What a lovely thing to say. Thank, you Julia!

  5. Heather Myers
    November 19, 2022 / 3:54 pm

    What a great color! And front fastening solution. I too think all coat patterns should include a front closing method. That’s what’s keeping me from making several coats which I like otherwise.

    • Diane
      November 20, 2022 / 11:49 am

      Ohh, thanks, Heather! Yes, coats need to close…take note pattern companies! Glad you like my solution though 🙂

  6. Ann Watts
    November 19, 2022 / 7:20 am

    Love this. The insert is an ingenious idea / solution. I just don’t understand coats without a fastening as I wear a coat when I need to keep warm.

    • Diane
      November 19, 2022 / 11:30 am

      Thanks, Ann! I agree, it seems silly not to have a means of fastening on a coat. Glad you like my solution

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