It’s official…I want to run away to Gretna Green, marry this coat and have it’s babies ‘cos that’s how much I love it! Butterick 6244, made in geometrically patterned wool blend, oh how I adore thee!
Yes, I know it’s just a piece of clothing but you do understand, don’t you?
The love story goes like this…versions of the Lisette drapey coat are spotted on the blogosphere and filed in one’s subconscious…. a fabric voucher prize is won from Sewisfaction for my entry to the OWOP challenge and I spot the fabric thinking I would make a skirt with it….fabric arrives and is more substantial than I imagined for a skirt and totally stunning…..so why not a coat?…I order the Lisette pattern…it arrives… as scissors and pattern meet fabric and sewing machine a heavenly choir of angels start to sing…(ok I made that last bit up!) You get my drift though, lol!
Suffice to say that this was one of those times when I thoroughly enjoyed each stage of this sewing project and love the finished garment too, in fact, I feel fabulous in it. The fabric is a lovely wool blend with an unusual geometric digital patterned weaved in soft charcoal tones. These colours are some of my favourite neutrals so I think my coat will be worn a lot as it will go over so many things. I’m not 100% sure but I think the fabric sold out shortly after Christmas as it was quite popular. Butterick 6244 is an unlined coat with a beautiful waterfall front that merges into a collar that seams together at the back neck. I’ve never had an unlined coat before but as I mentioned in my last blog post all about sewing goals and MAGAM… I felt that I had a need for one, for those times when I’m shopping in hot stores or for transitional weather and I don’t want something too thick and heavy. This is, in fact, my contribution to January’s MAGAM monthly challenge.
Now, as you know, I rarely make up a pattern without tweaking it a bit and this one is no exception. I may have mentioned before that I have forward rolling shoulders. My upper back is also a tiny bit rounded….blame it on many years bent over sewing machines and ironing boards. I always benefit from a centre back seam that I can shape a little, so I added one. I also extended the shoulders outwards, added shoulder dart and straightened them off a bit too. You can see here what I did:
It may not be the absolute correct pattern altering technique, but it works for me and after years of doing this alteration I know it works for my shape and everything feels so much better across my shoulders when I do it.
I also decided to add elbow darts into the sleeves. I like how a sleeve feels more comfortable to move in when a dart is made. There are many diagrams and most likely tutorials all over the web on how to do this and I just used one that I came across after a quick Youtube search..can’t recall which one it was..sorry. I think the one I found was actually for altering a dolls pattern..hehe.. but the idea is the same for a full size one.
- Firstly, you draw a horizontal line at elbow level on your pattern
- Next measure in about 2.5cm on the front seam and then using a gentle french curve draw a line from underarm to hem….cut or fold this inwards.
- One the back sleeve seam stick on an extra piece of paper, then measure out by the same amount of 2.5cm and draw a line from underarm to hem… cut along this line so now the seam curves outwards.
- At elbow level on the back mark a short dart of 1.5 cm deep.
- Along the hem add on 1.5 cm from the back seam and blend a new hemline to join up with the front seam.
It’s pretty easy to make darts on slim fit sleeves and the difference it makes is lovely to wear. As this coat doesn’t have the benefit of a slippy lining in the sleeves to ease of movement, adding darts really ups the comfort factor with no pulling.
The overall shape of this coat is lovely. I really like the neat shoulder line, the dart running down from neck edge to bust and I love how the collar fits on at the back. I would say that the sizing is pretty accurate. I usually make up a 10 to 12 size and as this was a roomy style I cut on a 10 all over. It was spot on. Had it been a fitted style I would have graded out at the waist. I shortened the overall length by about 5cm.
The instructions for the coat are for flat felled seams throughout. I enjoyed doing them and the finish inside is really neat. The only thing I wasn’t keen on was the fact that no armhole neatening was suggested. The instructions stated to just do two rows of machining around the armhole. Instead, I opted for overlocking around with a very short stitch length to almost give the effect of a satin stitch. It stops any fraying and looks much neater in my opinion.
I finished all of the edges and sleeve as suggested with very small hems turned up twice and machined. The fabric pressed well and it doesn’t seem bulky at all, plus it drapes well.
Overall this was a pretty easy make and very fun to do. Hope you like it as much as I do!
See you soon!
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