Butterick 6244 by Lisette…My New love…

 

Butterick 6244 by Lisette

It’s official…I want to run away to Gretna Green, marry this coat and have it’s babies ‘cos that’s how much I love it! Butterick 6244, made in geometrically patterned wool blend, oh how I adore thee!

Yes, I know it’s just a piece of clothing but you do understand, don’t you?

The love story goes like this…versions of the Lisette drapey coat are spotted on the blogosphere and filed in one’s subconscious…. a fabric voucher prize is won from Sewisfaction for my entry to the OWOP challenge and I spot the fabric thinking I would make a skirt with it….fabric arrives and is more substantial than I imagined for a skirt and totally stunning…..so why not a coat?…I order the  Lisette pattern…it arrives… as scissors and pattern meet fabric and sewing machine a heavenly choir of angels start to sing…(ok I made that last bit up!) You get my drift though, lol!

Suffice to say that this was one of those times when I thoroughly enjoyed each stage of this sewing project and love the finished garment too, in fact, I feel fabulous in it. The fabric is a lovely wool blend with an unusual geometric digital patterned weaved in soft charcoal tones. These colours are some of my favourite neutrals so I think my coat will be worn a lot as it will go over so many things. I’m not 100% sure but I think the fabric sold out shortly after Christmas as it was quite popular. Butterick 6244 is an unlined coat with a beautiful waterfall front that merges into a collar that seams together at the back neck. I’ve never had an unlined coat before but as I mentioned in my last blog post all about sewing goals and MAGAM… I felt that I had a need for one, for those times when I’m shopping in hot stores or for transitional weather and I don’t want something too thick and heavy. This is, in fact, my contribution to January’s MAGAM monthly challenge.

Butterick 6244 by Lisette

Butterick 6244 by Lisette

Now, as you know, I rarely make up a pattern without tweaking it a bit and this one is no exception. I may have mentioned before that I have forward rolling shoulders. My upper back is also a tiny bit rounded….blame it on many years bent over sewing machines and ironing boards. I always benefit from a centre back seam that I can shape a little, so I added one. I also extended the shoulders outwards, added shoulder dart and straightened them off a bit too. You can see here what I did:

Butterick 6244 by Lisette

It may not be the absolute correct pattern altering technique, but it works for me and after years of doing this alteration I know it works for my shape and everything feels so much better across my shoulders when I do it.

I also decided to add elbow darts into the sleeves. I like how a sleeve feels more comfortable to move in when a dart is made. There are many diagrams and most likely tutorials all over the web on how to do this and I just used one that I came across after a quick Youtube search..can’t recall which one it was..sorry. I think the one I found was actually for altering a dolls pattern..hehe.. but the idea is the same for a full size one. 

  • Firstly, you draw a horizontal line at elbow level on your pattern.
  •  Next measure in about 2.5cm on the front seam and then using a gentle french curve draw a line from underarm to hem….cut or fold this inwards.
  • One the back sleeve seam stick on an extra piece of paper, then measure out by the same amount of 2.5cm and draw a line from underarm to hem… cut along this line so now the seam curves outwards.
  • At elbow level on the back mark a short dart of 1.5 cm deep.
  • Along the hem add on 1.5 cm from the back seam and blend a new hemline to join up with the front seam.

Butterick 6244 by Lisette

It’s pretty easy to make darts on slim fit sleeves and the difference it makes is lovely to wear. As this coat doesn’t have the benefit of a slippy lining in the sleeves to ease of movement, adding darts really ups the comfort factor with no pulling.

Butterick 6244 by Lisette

Butterick 6244 by Lisette

The overall shape of this coat is lovely. I really like the neat shoulder line, the dart running down from neck edge to bust and I love how the collar fits on at the back. I would say that the sizing is pretty accurate. I usually make up a 10 to 12 size and as this was a roomy style I cut on a 10 all over. It was spot on. Had it been a fitted style I would have graded out at the waist. I shortened the overall length by about 5cm.

The instructions for the coat are for flat felled seams throughout. I enjoyed doing them and the finish inside is really neat. The only thing I wasn’t keen on was the fact that no armhole neatening was suggested. The instructions stated to just do two rows of machining around the armhole. Instead, I opted for overlocking around with a very short stitch length to almost give the effect of a satin stitch. It stops any fraying and looks much neater in my opinion.

Butterick 6244 by Lisette

I finished all of the edges and sleeve as suggested with very small hems turned up twice and machined. The fabric pressed well and it doesn’t seem bulky at all, plus it drapes well.

Butterick 6244 by Lisette

Overall this was a pretty easy make and very fun to do. Hope you like it as much as I do!

See you soon!

 

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Butterick 6244 by Lisette

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41 Comments

  1. January 19, 2018 / 11:13 pm

    I can totally understand your love affair with this one! All your adjustments look spot on, and I am SOOOOO tempted now to go for this pattern. Your fabric is amazing too, and the whole thing suits you really well! It’s love at first sight from me too 😉

    • diane
      Author
      January 20, 2018 / 10:16 am

      Ohh, thanks, Helen love xx. I can totally see you in this coat style too!

  2. January 20, 2018 / 1:44 am

    I’m bookmarking this under “sewing tutorials”. Beautiful coat, and understand your love for it. The print is gorgeous!

    • diane
      Author
      January 20, 2018 / 10:17 am

      Thanks so much Faye, I’m glad you like it. I’m also glad you’ve found the information useful too. xx

  3. January 20, 2018 / 4:49 am

    Wow that fabric is amazing – and you have chosen the perfect pattern to showcase it! Totally awesome coat Diane!

    • diane
      Author
      January 20, 2018 / 10:18 am

      Oh gosh, thank you so much for stopping by and for your lovely comment Sheryll. xx

  4. January 20, 2018 / 9:08 am

    This is absolutely gorgeous! Thanks for all the tips in your post as well – I’ll be bookmarking it for a later date. Congrats on a stunning coat. 😊

    • diane
      Author
      January 20, 2018 / 10:20 am

      Thanks, Claire! I’m chuffed that you like it. I’m always so pleased when people find what I write useful too xx

  5. Sharon Green-Buckley (a fellow RTW Faster)
    January 20, 2018 / 11:41 am

    I didn’t realise you are such an accomplished sexist
    Coat is gorgeous I want to have a go at everything you post😂

    • Sharon Green-Buckley (a fellow RTW Faster)
      January 20, 2018 / 11:42 am

      God I meant sewist sorry,

      • diane
        Author
        January 20, 2018 / 11:49 am

        Lol Sharon!! Hehe…I was hoping that was what you meant!
        Thanks for the lovely comment 🙂

  6. January 20, 2018 / 12:04 pm

    This is Devine Diane! Your new name I think xx great reference for when I do it soon and can’t wait. Was excited before but now i’ve seen yours I am biting at the bit!! Two more makes to do first though so patience is a virtue as they say. Bravo 👏🏻 xx

    • diane
      Author
      January 20, 2018 / 12:12 pm

      Aww, bless you for dropping by Sarah xx. Thanks so much lovely! I know your coat will be totally amazeballs!

  7. January 20, 2018 / 1:27 pm

    This is gorgeous! I’m just gearing up to make my first Lisette coat. My first muslin was too small. So this time I’m going by where my actual measurements fall rather than sizing down like I usually have to do with big 4!

    • diane
      Author
      January 20, 2018 / 1:32 pm

      Thank you! Yes, I found the sizing of this pattern to be really nice. Not too big at all and nice and neat through the shoulder, neck and bust area. Good luck with yours. xx

  8. January 20, 2018 / 1:48 pm

    Lovely! And that fabric….!!

    • diane
      Author
      January 20, 2018 / 4:24 pm

      Thank you Patty! So glad you like it.

  9. January 20, 2018 / 3:11 pm

    I’ve bookmarked this tutorial too – what a brilliant way to fix a fsa (which I have to do all the time) and I love what you did with the sleeves too. Your coat is so beautiful – I did see this fabric online and loved it but I’m really trying NOT to buy fabric right now 🙂 Your coat showcases it beautifully. It’s funny how often you can see a pattern and think, “EH” but seeing it made up in a beautiful fabric, well fitted with the right outfit it’s AMAZING 🙂

    • diane
      Author
      January 20, 2018 / 4:27 pm

      Thank you, Kathleen. I love it when people find my little tutorials/methods useful. Yes, you have a point, perhaps it’s the perfect combo of fabric and pattern, it can make or break a design eh?

  10. January 20, 2018 / 5:28 pm

    Wow, that fabric!! That pattern is in my queue and I’ve been worried that my fabric is too heavy for the drape. Now that I see yours, I’m even more worried…might have to go fabric shopping because I need that coat in my wardrobe! It fits you like a dream and looks perfect for shopping trips…gorgeous!

    • diane
      Author
      January 20, 2018 / 6:44 pm

      Ohh, thanks so much Linda. I feel like my fabric is probably spot on weight-wise for it to drape well and for the edges to be good for hemming and not add bulk. It feels like a felt type flanneland has a nap on the right side. I hope you find your perfect fabric soon xx

  11. Beck
    January 20, 2018 / 6:49 pm

    Just amazing. And I’d never even thought of elbow darts before. Off to google…

    • diane
      Author
      January 20, 2018 / 7:17 pm

      Thank you Beck! Oh yes, elbow darts are handy little things 🙂

  12. Vicki
    January 20, 2018 / 10:50 pm

    Great mix of fabric and pattern. And thanks for the tip on how to convert the sleeve.

    • diane
      Author
      January 21, 2018 / 11:21 am

      Thanks, Vicki x. Glad you like the combo. It’s a first for me too. I’m happy to hear that you found my sleeve tips useful too.

  13. January 21, 2018 / 8:52 am

    Beautiful coat Diane. Interesting about your adjustments to shoulders/back as I too am becoming slightly rounded. I thought it was age but maybe you’re right – it’s spending too much time on sewing related activities.

    • diane
      Author
      January 21, 2018 / 11:24 am

      Ruth, thank you. Yes, it does take it’s toll on your shoulders and back all this sewing…blogging too, on the laptop a lot. I also notice that I seem…how can I put it…more fleshy on my high upper back than I was. Hmmm..

  14. January 21, 2018 / 9:26 am

    I’m nit surprised you love it … gorgeous. I wouldn’t have thought of a waterfall in that fabric but it works. Lovely for spring.

    • diane
      Author
      January 21, 2018 / 11:25 am

      Thanks, Maggie. No, I’m the same. Would never have thought of this combo before. Oh, absolutely…great for spring too, this coat. Hurry up Spring!

  15. January 21, 2018 / 11:03 am

    I love everything about this coat and the fit is superb. I think I should pay more attention to fit on my patterns. Already thinking of adjustments I could do…

    • diane
      Author
      January 21, 2018 / 11:28 am

      Thank so much, Sue! I’ve really got to grips with my own body shape and fit over the last few years. Prior to that I was making less for myself and more for clients, so fitting them was my priority, but such great experience too.

  16. Brendy
    January 21, 2018 / 2:44 pm

    Did you make a muslin for this or did you just start right away on your good fabric? It seems like a lot of fabric to gamble with, but man, I hate wasting even muslin fabric on a practice run for sizing, etc…

    • diane
      Author
      January 21, 2018 / 3:57 pm

      Hi Brendy. I didn’t do a muslin, but I checked all of the areas that needed to fit well, i.e. the shoulder area and back width. I’m familiar with what the measurements should be around there. As the fronts were loose fitting I just quickly held the pattern pieces up by me and eyeballed for length etc. I make a muslin for quite fitted garments, sometimes just the top bit and more often if I’m pattern hacking and combining several patterns. Like you, even the thought of doing a muslin makes me think of the fabric waste though.

  17. January 28, 2018 / 9:00 am

    Wowsers! Your coat is fabulous, and that fabric is gorgeous. What you did with the sleeve dart makes perfect sense, I’m going to save this and maybe try it on the Deer and Doe Pavot coat sleeve.

    • diane
      Author
      January 28, 2018 / 1:38 pm

      Thank you, Lynne!Can you believe I’ve not had a chance to wear my coat yet??? Last week was a rather grim and stressful week for me with more dad problems…Hopefully this week I can though…I’m dying to get it on my back! Glad the dart idea proved useful to you xxx

  18. Addie
    February 2, 2018 / 6:35 pm

    I found your blog through the Oliver and S. blog, and I was astounded to find that we are going to have the same exact coat. Yours is stunning! I bought my fabric when I was in Edinburgh last October. I am working on sewing it right now. I don’t know if it will come out as beautifully as yours but I hope it looks okay. It’s my first coat. When it’s done I will post a picture on my Instagram @lotuspeachblog

    • diane
      Author
      February 2, 2018 / 7:01 pm

      Wow, How cool Addie! You’ll love the style and isn’t the fabric nice? Thanks for the kind words about mine. Bet yours will be fab and I’ll be sure to look out for it.

  19. February 3, 2018 / 6:17 am

    Your coat is so well made and fits beautifully. That fabric is very special… I love the geometric pattern. I made this coat last year but didn’t finish my edges but looking at yours I’m going back to finish them when it gets a bit cooler here again. I like your sleeve adjustment too.

    • diane
      Author
      February 3, 2018 / 10:11 am

      Thak you Summerfies. I toyed with the idea of leaving my edges raw and might have if they were all truly on straight grain lines and then I could have made sure that spare threads of fabric wouldn’t have shredded off. As it is I prefer a clean finish. I like how the front edges are folded to the outside and hems to the inside. It makes for nice lapels.

  20. February 7, 2018 / 7:59 pm

    Absolutely gorgeous coat!! It’s always interesting to learn ‘fit’ tips and techniques from what you share. This is an area I need to work on. 🙂

    • diane
      Author
      February 7, 2018 / 8:19 pm

      Ohh, thanks so much Lisa. I really appreciate that and for you stopping by my blog too xx

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