Wow, can you believe it’s November already??? I think a mild state of panic is setting in over here at chez Dream.Cut.Sew. Sew many sewing projects sew little time!
Thankfully, I just finished a nice palate cleansing quick make which I’m sharing with you today. It’s Burda 104 from the August issue of this year and it’s my second ever Burda make (the first one is here). I think I can safely say that I’m quite hooked on their modern designs. After a mind-boggling search for the appropriate tracing lines on the maze that is the Burda pattern drawings, I actually found it fairly bearable to trace off. I was given a tip by the lovely Alex of Sewrendipity (I actually met her at GBSB Live and she’s fabulous! Love her) and that useful tip was to use Frixion marker pens to highlight the lines prior to tracing to make them easier to see….I’ve yet to get hold of said pens, but will definitely be giving that a go sometime. The beauty of them is that you can run a warm iron over the Burda pattern sheet afterwards and the marker lines vanish ready for you to highlight the next pattern.
Anyway, let’s talk about this new top of mine, shall we? I only bought the fabric last week at SewBrum sewing meet up in Birmingham UK which is organised by English Girl at Home each year. A lot of chatting and even more fabric buying is to be had. I met so many lovely sewing ladies…some new and some that I’d met before. What a wonderful day! But, I digress….this fabric came from Barry’s Fabrics and is a proper jumper knit as opposed to a jersey knit. I’m afraid there was no content on the label, as I suspect many rolls are end-of-line buys. I’m guessing there are some natural fibres in it because it presses beautifully and drapes like a dream. It’s so smooth too. Perfect for this sweater…but, you know, it nearly wasn’t made in this olive fabric…I had laid out the pattern pieces on some deep red viscose jersey, but it turned out that I didn’t have enough fabric, so this ended up as plan B. I’m so glad though!
There are only 5 pieces to sew together in this sweater design. It’s a raglan style with quite a wide, open neckline and the deep collar is able to be worn in multiple ways as you can see from the photographs. I cut out the smallest size and after the first try on, I found it to be reasonably roomy/fluid in fit, so I made the following minor alterations :
- Shaped the sides in a little at the waistline.
- Narrowed the sleeves a little from elbow to cuff because I have small wrists.
- Raised the neckline a bit to make it slightly smaller in circumference.
- Took about an inch off each centre back collar seam to correspond to the smaller neck opening.
It was an easy to put together make. I used a slight zig-zag setting and my walking foot to stitch the seams first and then I overlocked each one in turn. If you want you could just set up your overlocker with four threads and do it all on that. I didn’t have enough matching threads to fill my overlocker though. All raglan seams were sewn first and then the underarms all in one. Next, I stitched the collar around the neck edge easing it on slightly and then just slip stitched it around on the inside. The centre-back collar seam is gathered by hand for a lovely ruched effect. A final try on and I decided on sleeve and body length before overlocking and stitching them up. Et voila!
The first stage of stitching all raglan seams together The inside collar edge is slip stitched and the centre is gathered last.
I can’t tell you how much I adore this sweater. The collar is so fab and now I’m yearning for one in some gorgeous Merino knit fabric from the Fabric Store. I understand that international shipping is free if you spend a certain amount…Christmas pressie maybe? I need to have a word with Santa…. 🙂
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