Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends ’23

It’s early September and that can only mean one thing if you’re a regular reader of my blog posts….Yes, that’s right, it’s time for one of my biannual posts where I delve into the new season fashions. I’m going to be sharing some sewing inspiration from Autumn Trends ‘23, talking about colour, the main themes to look for, showing runway images and last but not least, I’ll pick out a few sewing patterns that emulate the new trends.

I always enjoy adding the odd trendy item to my outfits but I’m also quite happy to go with my tried and true styles regardless of whether it’s ‘on-trend’ or not, so as always, this post is meant to inspire and get your creative juices going or to re-ignite your sewjo if it’s been missing in recent months. Maybe a colour or an accessory will spark an idea or remind you of a long-forgotten pattern from your stash that you could sew up for Autumn. So let’s dive in!

PS, For my Southern Hemisphere readers here’s my previous post about the Spring/ Summer trends.


Autumn/Winter trends for 2023 look set to be focusing on many more wearable styles. A trawl through the runways reveals a good smattering of impeccable tailoring, classic silhouettes and also some good old wardrobe staples. Granted there was the usual fair share of grandeur, bold colour and drama too. Red is a huge trend and black is definitely back (did it ever really go away??) Grey was also hugely popular and featured as the colour of choice for many long coats. Tailoring and business suits were popular but some of those tailored pieces were also dressed down with basics for more casual off-duty/weekend styles. 

Pantone Colours

Pantone does research for each season and showcases a selection of colours that tend to feature throughout runway collections from all the designers and then ultimately they filter down into high-street stores. There’s a group of colours for both London and New York.

First up is London and here’s a quote from Pantone’s website:

A palette of fresh, vibrant and invigorating colour inspires unorthodox colour combinations, encouraging freedom of self and inviting new conversations.

According to the website, we are encouraged to try new and interesting combinations by mixing up the bold dynamic shades with more refined and subtle colours from the palette.

Here are the colours:

London Panton Colours Autumn '23

Next is the New York Fashion Week colour range and a quote from Pantone:

 “An exultant mix of joyful color and new contemporary classics filtered through an optimistic lens exhibit a visionary and free-spirited color approach”

Pantone says that the new season colours encourage us to use new combinations to drive creativity and joy into our lives.

Here are the New York colours:

New York Pantone colours Autumn trends '23

The very long list of trends to look out for:

  • Pleats. Draped and soft or sharp and pressed.
  • Peplums
  • Quiet luxury…well-cut, well-fitted garments in good quality fabrics. Wearable elevated dressing.
  • Red
  • Sheer fabrics
  • LBC (long black coat)
  • Moody/dark florals
  • Buttery tones
  • Metallics particularly silver
  • Old school vibes, shirts and ties
  • Bows big or small
  • Bold checks/plaids
  • Leather. More so than in previous seasons
  • Soft textures like boucle, velvet, teddy shearling, faux fur
  • Power dressing/business suits
  • Nipped in waists on blazers
  • Maxi dresses
  • The humble white shirt
  • Circle skirts
  • Stylish rainwear
  • Grey
  • Straight or wide-leg jeans
  • Hoods


  • Bright tights
  • Big blanket scarves
  • Low-waist belts
  • Clutch bags
  • Big tote bags
  • Bold 80s style earrings
  • Over-the-knee boots
  • Lace-up chunky boots
  • Mary-Jane flat shoes

Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends ‘23. Runway Looks:

I’ve put together some images from looks that the designers sent down the runways which highlight some of the trends mentioned in the list above.

Click on the names at the foot of each collage and you’ll be taken to the whole collection of each designer.

Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends '23
Left to right : Victoria Beckham, Tove, Tove, Tove
Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends '23
Left to right: Stella McCartney, Prada, Erdem, Nanushka
Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends '23
Left to right: Max Mara, Max Mara, Hermes, Ferragamo
Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends '23
Left to right: Eudon Choi, Emilia Wickstead, Chloe, Chloe
Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends '23
Left to right: Brandon Maxwell, Ferragamo, Brandon Maxwell, Bottega Veneta
Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends '23
Left to right: Akris, Bruno Cucinelli, Richard Quinn

Sewing Pattern Suggestions

I bet you may already have patterns in your stash that you can use or adapt to add a sprinkle of fresh trends to your wardrobe, but I’ve also found a few that pick up on the latest trends. Some have been around for a while and some are new. New collections from Vogue, McCalls, Simplicity etc. might take a while to filter through to the UK but some are already available in the US and some new collections have yet to be released, so do watch out for those.

The link to the pattern is above each photo.

Vikisews Ivian dress

Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends '23
Vikisews Ivian dress

Vikisews marisa blazer

Vikisews Marisa Blazer
Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends '23

Vikisews Abbie teddy jacket

Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends '23
Vikisews Abbie jacket

Grasser 963 full leather skirt

Grasser 963 leather skirt
Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends '23

Grasser 999 long coat

Grasser 999
Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends '23

Grasser 1022 white shirt

Grasser 1022 white shirt
Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends '23

Vogue 1968 pleat drape dress

Vogue 1968
Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends '23

Vogue 1906 maxi dress

Vogue 1906

Vogue 1926 maxi coat

Vogue 1926 coat

Burdastyle 6845 long coat

Burdastyle 6845
Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends '23

Burda 104 02/23 blazer

Burda 104 02/23 blazer

New Look 6585 Hooded coat

New Look 6585

Butterick 6940 dress

Butterick 6940
Autumn Trends '23

Butterick 6915 pantsuit

Butterick 6915
 Autumn Trends '23

The Assembly Line hoodie parka

TAL Hoodie parka
Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends '23

The Assembly Line oversized shirt

TAL overszed shirt
Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends '23

Style Arc Phillipa peplum top

Style Arc Phillipa peplum top
Sewing Inspiration From Autumn Trends '23

In Conclusion… 

In closing, I have to say that I like the wearability factor this season and I love the textures and silhouettes. I’m also pleased to see some of ‘my’ colours represented in the Pantone selections.

I’m already making a hooded raincoat so that’s one for me to tick off from the trends list, however, as I always say…just take what you want from all of these ideas and inspirational images,  even if it’s just detail or colour and be your own individual self. 

I like to add the odd trend here and there while still maintaining my personal style. As something new, I’m pondering the idea of whether to try out a shirt. I haven’t actually worn anything remotely shirt-like (button-through with a collar…with the exception of my shacket which is a coat) since I was in my late 20s! (I know, I’m rather strange eh?? 🙂 ) It would be a bit of a wildcard but if I don’t try I won’t know so that could be my experiment. One thing I probably won’t make though is a top with a peplum as I’m just not that keen on the silhouette which never feels right with my proportions..but hey ho.

I’m curious to know your thoughts on the colours and styles for the new season, so let’s chat in the comments.

As always, thanks for reading and I’ll catch you soon!

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  1. Joan
    September 3, 2023 / 5:04 pm

    Great Fall/Winter summary Diane! I appreciate your doing this review of colors, looks across numerous designers and pattern Co’s. I used to love Vogue Patterns magazine’s seasonal pattern coverage (but unfortunately, the current owner of Vogue/McC/Butterick/Simplicity/NewLook/KwikSew ceased producing that wonderful magazine…).

    I am surprised there are no ruffled looks among these images, as that is one design feature that was HEAVY from late Spring to Summer, and I have yet to add it to my wardrobe. I am working on a wedding guest dress and debating adding a short ruffle at neck and hem vs. a flounce, to avoid dating the dress to 2023!

    Back to your seasonal summary: I love the fiery red and persimmon in the London colors (I love some of the red-oranges, even if they aren’t my most flattering as a Winter). And the viva magenta and rose violet from the NY colors. Several of the greens and blues featured seem much more traditionally spring or summer colors — I guess surprise is the point of those.

    The Viki Sews Abbie jacket is super cute: I’ll be watching to see if you make a version! I like VS Marisa blazer, as well. I love Palmer/Pletsch: they’re fitting techniques and their patterns, but I’m not a fan of B6940’s bodice design. I don’t care for the V-underlay of the ruched and draped neckline. I think it is a practical solution to add modesty to this style, but for some reason, it is not my cup of tea. Do you like this bodice?

    Re. shirts: after spending 6 weeks in Italy and a week in Portugal this summer, coping with the hot city summer, I have been adding some pretty cotton shirtings to my stash to make some shirtdress-style dresses for NEXT summer! I, like you, have literally not worn a “shirt” for perhaps 30 years, but I have realized I need to have some pretty “tops” that aren’t just cotton or rayon (or even linen) knit, but something that reads a bit dressier than a T that can potentially be worn without a jacket when it is hot. There are a lot of looks this year that feature a (white) shirt as the base layer, or an oversized ‘boyfriend’ shirt. I don’t know that I will try that look, but I would like to add a couple of high quality shirts to my wardrobe, as well.

    Happy Fall!

    • Diane
      September 3, 2023 / 8:19 pm

      I’m glad my post has proved interesting, Joan, thanks! You’re absolutely right, there was a distinct lack of ruffles to be seen. I did come across a few but chose not to include them this time around.
      Funny how we’re both thinking about adding a shirt to our wardrobes, and you’re right, I very much like the VS Abbie jacket. Re-the neckline on that pattern B6940. It feels a bit clunky to me and I wish the V insert maybe wasn’t there or was cut somewhat lower. It definitely feels a bit off.

  2. Joan
    September 3, 2023 / 5:09 pm

    p.s. I forgot to ask whether you think the big shoulder look will succeed in making a comeback! I see that maybe 50% of these looks have the super extended shoulder… I don’t know if I want to go there! I love many of the other coats and jacket patterns you featured: I love the collar on B6915, and have a couple jackets patterns with a similar collar that I already have fitted for me, but like you, I am not big on peplums, even if they are supposed to suit me (lengthen my short torso and help me create more of a WAISTLINE ;-}

    • Diane
      September 3, 2023 / 8:23 pm

      Oh yes, I noticed the wider and sharper padded shoulder lines. I have fairly square shoulders anyway so will be giving those a miss and staying within my own proportions :). And I’m guessing peplums will suit some people but I was never a fan of them for myself when they were on-trend previously but there are plenty of other styles to keep me busy 🙂

  3. PatB
    September 3, 2023 / 6:48 pm

    Thank you for another great review. I appreciate the considerable research and suggested patterns. Love that there are more classic and wearable designs. I will try the peplum top but maybe with a matching skirt, a two piece dress!

    Diane, look forward to your post on a hooded raincoat.

    • Diane
      September 3, 2023 / 8:11 pm

      Thanks for the kind comment, Pat. Yes, nice to see lots of wearable styles. Ooh, I like the sound of a two-piece dress.

  4. Heather in Colorado
    September 3, 2023 / 11:18 pm

    Thanks, I like the full skirts. I have an orange / black small herringbone cotton flannel I just cut – we’ll see how I like the more voluminous look and to wear.😊 and have a Olya shirt from white and Tahoe striped fabric planned. (Guthrie and Ghani kit)

    • Diane
      September 4, 2023 / 9:42 am

      You’re welcome, Heather, thanks for reading. I love the sound of that fabric for your full skirt. Oh, the Olya shirt is a great pattern. For some reason Paper Theory wasn’t on my radar but it should have been included in this post. Bet it will look great in stripe

  5. September 3, 2023 / 11:50 pm

    I’ve noticed the vibrant colours coming her for spring. Some of these silhouettes are also arriving, but we are getting a mix of this post and your summer post. Another great roundup Diane!

    • Diane
      September 4, 2023 / 9:43 am

      Cheers Sue! Thanks for the kind words. Oh that’s interesting how you’re noticing a mix of the Summer and Autumn trends filtering through in your neck of the woods.

  6. September 7, 2023 / 3:53 am

    Thank you, Diane. I always appreciate you doing so much research and keeping me up to date on what’s coming down the runway! Having RTW designs in my mind helps spark ideas when I find fabric I want to sew up. I’ll be keeping my eye out for some of these trending colors. I actually have a few new pieces of fabric with a touch of red for a companion color with all my blacks.


    • Diane
      September 7, 2023 / 10:44 am

      Ohhh, thanks my friend! I’m glad you feel inspired. When I put together these posts it really gets ideas going for me too and as you say they stay in your mind when picking out new patterns and fabric.

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