Revisiting Grasser Patterns 814

Revisiting Grasser Patterns 814

Are you sick of me showing you Merino jersey tops yet? No? Ok then 🙂 In today’s post, I’m revisiting Grasser Patterns 814 polo top. You can read all about my previous version here, but this time around I’ve played with fit a little over the bust area which I’ll tell you all about in a while and I’ve also sewn this version in two contrasting fabric colours for a bit of variety.

You’ll probably recognise one of the colours of the fabrics I’ve used here (Merino jersey from The Fabric Store) because this is the same pale sage green that I used for the top in my previous post. I used leftover fabric from that top for the collar, cuffs and plackets. Just like my first version of this polo top, I decided to add button-up plackets on the sleeves as well as down the front. The original pattern only has the placket down the front.

Revisiting Grasser Patterns 814

The fit change I mentioned earlier in this post is that I’ve created a bit of bust shaping with added depth over the bust. To do this I added about 4cm of extra length at the front. Then I drew slash lines from the side seam which intersected with the bust point and then carried on across to the centre of the top at the placket seam. Once I had cut through the slash lines I closed up the 4cm depth equivalent of a bust dart which in turn opened up the slash lines in the middle. This extra fabric length at the placket seam is then gathered back down and sewn into the placket seams. The result is a little bit of soft gathering and a nicer fit over the bust.

Grasser 814 . Adding centre bust gathers
Revisiting Grasser Patterns 814

All the plackets and collar pieces have been interfaced with a lightweight nylon knit iron-on interfacing that’s got very little stretch in one direction and a little more stretch in the other. It adds structure but not stiffness or bulk. I’m not sure where I bought mine from but this interfacing from Tailormouse is similar

By the way, the pretty buttons that I think go so well with the fabric came from one of my favourite eBay shops called Number-Sixty. It’s well worth a browse through their shop if you need buttons for a project.

I love the collar pattern for this design. The undercollar is cut fractionally smaller so that once it’s sewn to the top collar everything curves and rolls correctly without the undercollar showing. The long dagger points are fabulous and I can’t believe how nice the jersey was to sew into a tailored collar. You’ll find more information about sewing the buttonholes and collar in the post about my first version of this top.

Revisiting Grasser Patterns 814
Revisiting Grasser Patterns 814

I’m glad I revisited this pattern because I’ve learned a great method for adding bust shaping and I love the contrasting collar and cuffs. It also goes very well with my olive jeans which I made a little while ago. They’ve already been worn a lot and go with many different tops and sweaters from my wardrobe. I have a feeling that this top will be quite versatile too.

Well, I think I’ll take a break from sewing Merino knits for a while and move on to something different. I’m struggling to make up my mind about what project to do next, but I don’t mind taking my time. I’d rather make the right choice than end up with a wardrobe orphan that doesn’t go with anything.

Speaking of wardrobe orphans and style, I recently heard about a book called ‘Wear It Well’ by Allison Bornstein that delves into finding your 3 descriptive words and working out your style. I feel as though I’ve had a lot more success this last year or so with working out what I like to wear, but I’m always open to learning more. Let me know if you’ve read the book and what you think. I’m wondering if it’s worth getting.

Thanks for stopping by and reading. And I’ll see you soon!

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  1. Sandra Baumgartner
    December 1, 2023 / 6:21 pm

    I love how you did the sleeve plackets. I’m sure the merino wool feels amazing to wear. I assume you use interfacing when making the buttonholes on merino wool and similar fabrics. What kind of interfacing do you use?

    • Diane
      December 1, 2023 / 7:43 pm

      Thank you Sandra. Yes, I used a lightweight nylon knit interfacing on the plackets and collar. I did include a link to something similar in my post in my post :).

  2. Joan
    December 1, 2023 / 8:14 pm

    Beautiful, beautiful top, Diane. I really love the tailored long collar, placket and wonderful contrast sleeve cuff and placket. That interfacing really worked nicely in your detail areas.

    Re. the 4 cm additional length that you added @ CF: I have read your description carefully, but it ‘looks’ like you rotated the side bust dart to the CF and then eased it, rather than stitched it. But I don’t think that is what you said you did. Can you please clarify? Did you add more length than the side dart had? I am curious about the difference between fullness at CF versus from the side seam (as in the original dart).

    Your top looks nice and smooth around the armhole, no pull lines!

    • Diane
      December 1, 2023 / 8:47 pm

      Thank you so much Joan! So glad you like it. So the original top has no darts at all and the extra 4cm depth that I added is indeed rotated to the front and softly gathered into the placket seam instead of stitched into a dart.

  3. Joan
    December 1, 2023 / 11:05 pm

    Have a great weekend, Diane!

  4. Sally Godwin
    February 18, 2024 / 11:26 am

    Exquisitely sewn! Love it. Reminds me of my old Pattern Drafting teacher at night school, who used odds and ends of material to add details as you have.

    • Diane
      February 18, 2024 / 12:28 pm

      Ohhh, thank you so much Sally! And what a lovely memory 🙂

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