Pattern Hacking BurdaStyle 113 11/2018 Again!

Pattern Hacking BurdaStyle 113 11/2018 Again!

I have a soft spot for this particular pattern so I’ve been pattern hacking BurdaStyle 113 11/2018 again and this time with a bit more asymmetry thrown into the mix. 

It’s a great little pattern for an everyday long-sleeved top. There’s a nice bit of interest with the angled bodice seam and the side ruching and as I’ve already demonstrated, there’s also a bit of scope for hacking. 

My previous version in olive has some ruffles too but I kept the original neckline (check out my original post here). It’s been worn an awful lot and is actually looking a little past its best now…I’ve recently spotted tiny splashes of bleach on the sleeves where I’ve obviously worn it while wiping the kitchen surfaces down. I’ll still get more wear out of it but it’s time for version two.

My lovely duck egg shade jersey came from Fabric Godmother and is a yummy Tencel/ Modal blend that feels gloriously smooth to the touch. 

Pattern Hacking BurdaStyle 113 11/2018 Again!

Originally, for version two, the plan was to add a second ruffle above the first and to make it part of the neckline which I wanted to change into an asymmetric one.

As you can see from the finished photos, that’s not quite the final outcome though…more on that shortly, but first, let me tell you about the pattern hacking…

Pattern Hacking Details

Ok, so to make that extra bit of asymmetry which echoes the diagonal seaming I had to alter the upper front bodice pattern piece. It was really simple to do. First I followed the original seamline and marked 2” (5cm) above it to create a second seam and then from the neckline edge of the right shoulder, I cut down to the new line to create an asymmetrical neck opening. Seam allowances were then added to the new pattern pieces along the new seamlines.

Just as for my olive top, I created ruffles for the sleeve hems and for the diagonal seam, and once again I did a rolled hem finish on them using my overlocker.  You can read about the overlocker settings I use for rolled hemming in this blog post from a few years back.

Now, I thought that it would be a great idea to have a second ruffle that followed the new seamline and the neck edge.

See how it looked here:

Seeing Sense

So I made up it like that, attached it, finished the neckline, sewed up the side seams, made the sleeves and sewed them in.  Then I tried the top on before overlocking around the sleeve seams just to make sure they looked ok…and I stood there looking at myself in the mirror and all the time I was hearing a little voice in my head saying nope, it’s not me, it’s overkill… it’s a ruffle too far. Now, I’ve often ignored those sorts of thoughts and pushed them aside, but not this time. In my heart, I knew that I needed cleaner lines and that I’m always happiest with very minimal ruffle details. 

Out came the unpicker and off came the ruffle. Then I made a sleek binding which I sewed along the angled seam carrying it around the back of the neck, and back down the vertical side of the asymmetric neckline. I couldn’t be more pleased with it now and it really feels like ‘me’. It’s definitely been a little style lesson learned. 

Pattern Hacking BurdaStyle 113 11/2018 Again!
Pattern Hacking BurdaStyle 113 11/2018 Again!
Pattern Hacking BurdaStyle 113 11/2018 Again!
Pattern Hacking BurdaStyle 113 11/2018 Again!
Pattern Hacking BurdaStyle 113 11/2018 Again!

Style Shift?

Talking of style, I’ve noticed a teeny, tiny shift in my taste lately. Firstly, it was the different silhouette of the Tatjana Trousers which I loved and felt great in. And now…I can’t believe I’m about to say this…but I may be feeling a slight veer away from liking mostly knits for tops and I find myself craving a few more woven instead. It could be the thought of Spring maybe? I’ve even bought a shirt pattern yet I used to say I would never wear a shirt style again…just who am I right now?? Lol! 

Despite what I just said though, I’ve just cut out a new knit top for my next project that I’m feeling enthusiastic about but I really do fancy exploring the idea of some different fabrics. 

Have you had any style-shift feelings lately? I’d love to know. Tell me in the comments and we can get all analytical together.

Ok, well that’s me done for this post, I hope you enjoyed it and thanks as always for stopping by to read, I always appreciate your support. 🙂

I’ll be back soon. Till next time…

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  1. Jen
    March 16, 2021 / 10:06 am

    Oh wow… what a fantastic top! You have excelled even yourself with this one Dianne!!!

    • diane
      March 16, 2021 / 10:17 am

      Ohhh, thank you so much, Jen!

  2. March 16, 2021 / 1:12 pm

    I love your new top especially with your “hack” 🙂 the asymmetry of the neckline is emphasized with the ruffle below it but the ruffle itself is subtle and dainty in just the right degree of balance. The colour on you is perfection! I lost some weight over the past year (20 lb) and that has meant that all my tops are really too big. I had just managed to replenish my long sleeve knit top collection when boom off came this weight so back to the drawing board I go! I took my measurements for a fitting class recently with Alexandra Morgan (Fitting Essentials) This is mostly a refresh for me. I bought it for myself just for fun 🙂

    I must wait another few weeks before my vision is up to what I need it to be (my left eye surgery is Mar 26 then a bit of recovery time) before I can return to my sewing. I’ve been missing it terribly over the past few months with my vision so poorly (cataracts) I just can’t wait! I have a half sewn Cambria Duster waiting for me on my cutting table in a gorgeous olive, heavy sateen which I’ll have to finish first and then onto a few of those long sleeve knit tops. When I saw your post come into my inbox with a story of a beautiful, long sleeve knit top sewn by one of my favourite sewists 🙂 I couldn’t wait to read about what you’d made and how. I’m a soft dramatic so your top wouldn’t be quite right for me but it suits you so perfectly!

    • diane
      March 17, 2021 / 9:28 am

      Awww, thank you, Kathleen! Ohhhh…roll on March 26th eh! It must be frustrating to not be able to scratch that sewing itch, so to speak. The Cambria looks like a great pattern and will be lovely for cool Spring days… and you had me at Olive 🙂 You’ll have fun making a new long-sleeved top wardrobe too no doubt.

  3. March 16, 2021 / 4:07 pm

    So very pretty. After the ‘Pandemic Pajamas’, I think that we all need to creep out to the Spring in a joyously feminine way!

    Thanks for this delightful inspiration.

    • diane
      March 17, 2021 / 9:22 am

      ‘Pandemic Pajamas’…love that! And thanks so much, Angela!

  4. Joan
    March 16, 2021 / 8:50 pm

    Listen well to our inner voices! Lovely pattern hack and smart decision to go with one ruffle. This is a great early spring sew and the color is wonderful on you. Please keep us posted on the transition toward wovens, and what you think! I’ve been “thinking” the same thing, at least as a way to dress up for a dinner out, or social event, but haven’t actually taken action yet…

    • diane
      March 17, 2021 / 9:21 am

      Oh absolutely, Joan. Those pesky little voices can’t be ignored! Glad you like my top and I’ll definitely keep you posted about the wovens. I’m never giving up my knits but a little bit of variety can’t be a bad thing.

  5. Sam
    March 18, 2021 / 10:38 am

    This top is really lovely, I’m going to check out the pattern myself. I have been feeling a similar style shift to you, I’ve started planning a few woven blouses or shirts after living in knits for most of the last year. I think that’s probably why I’ve felt the shift, while I love a good jersey top I am kind of sick of wearing one with jeans pretty much every day!

    • diane
      March 18, 2021 / 8:12 pm

      Thanks, Sam! Yeah, it’s a great little pattern. But I can identify with the feeling sick of knits and jeans syndrome!

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