As promised last week here is my fourth iteration of McCalls 7445 Wide leg cropped trousers/culottes.
For this (I won’t say my last, because you never know 😉 version I’ve used a lovely mahogany/burgundy stretch viscose blend crepe from Sewisfaction. It’s a soft, slightly lightweight and very drapey fabric, and has a sort of woolly feel. At the time of writing this post there is still some of this colour left.
So, design-wise I chose to do the high waist version with a waistband. I have quite a flat bottom and high hip bones, AKA no waist definition. So anything less than a high waist just rides down constantly causing me to be very grumpy at having to constantly yank them back up. Nobody wants to feel that uncomfy in their clothes! I prefer to put something on and forget about it.
Fit tweaks that I did to the pattern whilst cutting out, involved scooping out and lowering the back crotch curve and widening the waistline.
Now, in my mind, I had planned on styling my culottes/trousers with thick opaque hold-ups and either knee-high or ankle boots. I immediately realised that the woolly nature of the fabric would mean that I’d have fabric sticking to my legs. Not fun! I thought that the best solution was to add a half lining to the inside of the front legs only. Read on for how I did it:
McCalls 7445 modified with a half lining
I decided that I would incorporate the lining into the pocket construction so that I could cut down on added bulk. With this in mind, I used the front pattern piece, minus the pocket back section and cut the lining out with a length that finished below the knee area.
Next, I reinforced the edge of the pocket opening with some strips of iron on interfacing.
I stitched the lining to the front trouser fabric around the square pocket opening seam, then I turned it through, understitched, pressed it well and topstitched.
Next, I overlocked around the pocket bag/hip section and after lining up the markings I simply stitched it in place onto the lining. Here’s a couple of photo details for you:
Once the pockets were finished I hemmed the lower edge of the lining with a simple row of overlocking and then basted the lining to the front legs all the way around within the seam allowances.
Construction for everything else after I’d done the pockets was pretty much the same as with any other trousers…front seam, zip, inside legs, crotch seam and side seams. By the ,
When I overlocked along the edges where I had a lining layer as well, unfortunately, it proved to be a bit shifty and the lining pushed along. I found that by machining the edges together first, using a straight stitch and my walking foot, it helped to hold the layers together and then when I overlocked everything stayed put nice and evenly.
I was in the mood to take my time on this project to get a nice finish on the inside as well as outside, so I made a nice little zip guard and I bound around the edges of it with some of the lining fabric. I also did a Hong Kong binding finish all along the edge of the inside waistband.
I sewed on a sturdy trouser hook and bar to fasten the band and then added my final finishing touch…my very own labels that came from The Dutch Label Shop 🙂
I already showed you my new labels in this post and if you hurry you can still order some custom labels for yourself and get 15% off by using code dreamcutsew15 at checkout. The offer runs until January 14th 2019.
I had originally meant to make and post about these trousers two weeks back but life got in the way. Better late than never though and they are proving to be insanely comfy. Here, I’ve styled them with the sweater I wrote about in this post and my burgundy Pikolinos boots. The fabric swishes and falls nicely and nothing pulls or constricts. They were worth the wait…I hope you agree too 😉
Okey dokey, well it’s getting perilously close to Christmas and I still have my December BurdaStyle Team project to complete. I might try and post it next week before I take a break but we’ll see. Stay tuned for side-stripe, ankle zippered trousers… 🙂
See you soon!
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