Wow, two posts in one week? I’m spoiling you 😉 I made this Grasser 814 polo style top a few days ago and couldn’t wait to share it with you all.
The polo style top is very on-trend at the moment. Many designers had iterations in the runway shows, either in top form or even as a dress. In fact ever since I pinned these images on one of my boards I’ve been itching to make one myself and couldn’t get the style out of my mind.
Fortuitously, Grasser bought this pattern out a few weeks back and it looked like the exact thing that I had in mind. Straight away I knew I had to get it. I already had some suitable fabric in my stash and the buttons to go with it, so I was good to go!
A bit about my fabric…it’s a delightful Merino blended with some modal (no longer on the website because I think it was more of a Winter blend) which I got from Metermeter. It’s super stretchy and soft and lightweight. It prewashed beautifully and feels gorgeous next to my skin. I love the rusty terracotta shade too. It’s even similar to the colour of one of the pattern examples on the Grasser website!
Now, the original design for this Grasser top looks a bit loose-fitting through the body and hips. On the tucked in example, you can see blousing around the waist and the long dress version looks loose around the hips. I wanted my top more fitted in keeping with my original inspiration photos so I sized it down by one size when I ordered the PDF. I actually ended up taking my finished top in from just above waist level through the hem as well, because I want to be able to tuck in without any unnecessary bulk. For reference, I got a (Russian size) 40.
So, the sequence of making is to start with the collar, move onto the shoulders of the body, then sew on the collar, attach the plackets and then finish the collar seam with a binding. You finally stitch side seams, add sleeves and cuffs, then do the hem. I thought you might enjoy this little sequence of photos that I created for Instagram Stories of my process:
Apart from the fact that I tweaked the design of my top for a closer fit… I really want to give a big shout out for how well-drafted this pattern is. The upper and lower collars are sized differently so that the finished collar lays beautifully, the sleeve head shaping is fabulous too. I love the fit around my neck and shoulders. The instructions are written in English (maybe the translation was slightly wobbly at times but I got the gist) with pictures to accompany each step and I had no problem following them.
Ok, so it can’t possibly have escaped your notice by looking at my photos that I’ve been at it again…hacking that is. Yes, I’ve added extra plackets up the sleeves (I just used a shortened version of the main placket pattern piece) and put more buttons and buttonholes for extra bling and pizzazz…I mean if you’re going to add buttons, make a statement with them eh? I love the effect
And ok, I know I had to sew all those extra buttonholes on a knit fabric, but it was sooooo worth it! Talking of buttonholes, I’ve included some tips about sewing buttonholes on knits in last weeks post, so go and take a look if you’re interested.
I’m really thrilled with this top because it turned out just as I had envisaged and I love it both buttoned to the neck or left open for a more casual vibe. It’s a perfect weight for wearing in the Spring too.
Ok, so that’s me done for this week. At this point, I’m not sure what I have planned for next weeks post so I guess it’ll be a surprise 🙂 . Till then…
See you soon. Oh and don’t be a stranger. Drop me a line in the comments you know I love to chat x
Pin For Later
Such a lovely colour and the buttons are fab.
Thanks ever so much, Hayley!
Fabulous make as always and it looks fabulous and comfortable too.
Thanks ever so much Chris, it is really comfortable.
Fantastic top, Diane! Beautiful detailing and fit: it looks wonderful on you. Love your modeling! The mostly-open neckline looks like your sexy inspiration photos, but the fully-buttoned styling looks very elegant in this fine fabric and gold dome button.
We have a “preppy fashion” NYC-based RTW company, J. McLaughlin, that has a signature knit “shirt” with pointed collar and full-length button front, not a half-length placket (but similar): it looks so comfortable (as compared to a woven fabric) and dressier than a T-top style, but I have wondered about stabilizing the tailored parts and about the amount and difficulty of ironing the garment after a wash. At least I would know how to stabilize after your excellent tutorial.
Did you use the Vilene bias tape with chainstitch on the collar? I looked it up after your previous mention, and found we don’t have it in the U.S. unless we purchase it from the UK. We do have other soft tapes, straight grain and bias, either from Japan or the SewKeysE line. Have you used any of these others to compare with the Vilene?
Alteration for full bust or shoulder on this smaller pattern?
Will read your buttonhole tutorial, for sure!
Thanks ever so much, Joan. Glad you like my posing…hehe. I thought I’d try styling my top in both ways and I might wear it open if I fancy popping a necklace on but I was surprised at how much I love it buttoned up. Like you, I love how it showcases the buttons.
Those knit shirts by McLaughlin sound really lovely and I’ll see if I can find them online to take a look.
Regarding the stabilising…around the undercollar edges, I’ve used the Vilene tape (I haven’t heard of the others you mentioned) but down the plackets, I’ve used strips of straight grain, weft insertion woven interfacing. The knit fabric also presses quite well with gentle heat and a bit of steam over a silk organza press cloth. Ooh and yes, just a very simple forward shoulder alteration but nothing for the bust.
Thank you for the answers! I checked out the Grasser website and sizing: very interesting how they adjust for height and really give quite a lot of info to figure out which size to download as they are individually sized. I think your more fitted interpretation is much nicer than theirs, however!
Thank you. Yes, I’m inclined to agree..hehe 🙂
Wow! The top and color looks great on you!! The addition of the sleeve placket and the bling bling buttons 😉 make the top even more interesting. Many thanks for your review and sharing the step by step photos. I guess I have to put that top on my To Do list too.
Thank you so much, Martina! So glad you like it…but sorry that I’ve just made your to-do list longer 😉
Another gorgeous make! You are such an inspiration Diane – LOVE the cuffs and you’re so right that there are times when the extra work is just called for 🙂
Ohhh, that’s so lovely of you to say, Kathleen. Thank you so much!
What lovely photos! You look radiant.
Aww, thanks, Catherine! I’m pleased with how they turned out.
This is so ‘70’s but you were probably not around or just a baby. I was a teenager and I remember it well. You have done a great job and love it with those pants.
Thanks, Vicki! I’ve always had a fondness for 70’s styles. And I was definitely around in the ’70s 😉 but I remember the late ’70s and ’80s more