A new issue of Fibre Mood magazine comes out today and every 3 months along with some other sewists I get to try out one of the new patterns before they get released. I usually only pick a pattern if it aligns with my plans and suits my style, and this time the ***Fibre Mood Harper blouse appealed to me. I loved the unusual placement of gathers on it and I could see that the sleeves were perfect to lengthen and add cuffs to which was always something that I’d had in mind for the fabric I’d chosen from my stash.
****Disclaimer: This post contains some affiliate links. This means that I may make a small commission at no cost to you if you click through and purchase something that I link to. You can read my full disclosure policy here (thank you for supporting Dream Cut Sew )
So the fabric is a delightful 100-per-cent wool muslin that I got over a year ago from an online store based in Switzerland called Swiss Textiles Shop. I ordered the golden yellow (called caramel) along with a length of brown. Actually, there’s a funny little back story about my purchase… it was being sent from Switzerland with FedEx and I’d been given a tracking reference number, so of course, I kept checking on it to see where it was. Alas, something went a bit wrong in the main French airport and somehow my order got on a plane to the US!! My heart sank and I started to share tracking updates on my Instagram stories. After a couple of days, I started to see the funny side of it and my IG followers did too. Would you believe my package went through four different states (!!!) in the US before eventually heading back to the UK? It took about a month overall but it eventually got to me unharmed and intact. I do love a happy ending 🙂
Anyhow, I digress…you’re here to read about my blouse. 🙂
So the pattern comes in sizes XS-XXL and after measuring the pieces and checking the size charts I went with a size small. I did actually make a mock-up using an old sheet and I’m glad I did because I got quite a bad dragline at my sides so I added a bust dart and ultimately for my shoulder and neck area to sit right (always a problematic area for me), I added a small dart which starts from my neckline at the shoulder point and travels along my shoulder for about 4 inches…oh, and I also raised the back neckline a little.
The sleeves on this design are three-quarters length but for my fabric, I had always intended to use it paired with some perfectly matching ribbing from my stash to create some cuffs and a neckline band so I adapted my Harper by lengthening the sleeves by 2- 3 inches and then adding 4-inch long knit cuffs. Then I used the same knit fabric to finish the neck edge off. I don’t think I altered the length apart from scooping it up slightly at the front.
I really like this blouse and it’s a little bit different with those lovely soft gathers, plus it’s not overly loose and baggy. Wearing this soft golden yellow is a first for me and I’m really liking it too. I bet it would look great with my cream jeans in the Spring too. The fabric feels divine to wear and presses beautifully. Overall I’d say this was a successful project for me and I’m thinking of maybe using some pretty viscose from my stash for another Harper.
Hope you like my new blouse. Oh, and have you ever sewn wool muslin before? It’s sew lovely! Let me know in the comments.
See you soon.
I noticed that you distributed the gathers differently than Fibre Mood itself has done.
Author
Hmm, yes, I can see a few more gathers at the centre front on the Fibre Mood website and yet I’m pretty sure I have my markings correct there. I think maybe my wool fabric may have shrunk out a bit with pressing. It doesn’t bother me though.
I like it better this way. 😉
Author
Well, thank you! I took a look at my markings and I realise they were off a bit. But I like it too.
What an wonderful fabric, I’d never seen wool muslin before! I did wonder about the fit of this pattern, so was interested to see that you have added darts to improve the fit. I think it’s a really good call, as the fit looks superb.
Author
Thank you so much! And the fabric is lovely. A the name suggests it’s quite lightweight and a little sheer. I did prewash I first and steam pressed it well too prior to sewing up.
How do you find arm movement in this? I have just made a wearable muslin and find that my arm movement is restricted. I have taken the seam closer to the body under the arm which has helped but I don’t know what else to do about it without redrafting it! The only person I have found online who mentioned it is @isewtherforeiam
Author
Hi Tamsin. I did size down a bit initially which helped quite a bit. Having worn it several times I experienced a little bit of restriction but nothing too bad until I layered a cardigan over the top and then I was more aware. I’ve since revisited and stitched even closer in but also upwards a bit which makes the armhole depth a little shallower, it’s now comfy and I’ve transferred the alterations to my pattern to make another in stripe. Perhaps you could try that?
One final thought is that you could add a diamond shaped gusset. I’ve seen this technique used on armholes before to increase movement.
Hello Diane, very interesting, ! could you draw a scketch of the original pattern and it’s adaptation ?
Thank you very much in advance,
Marie
Author
Hi Marie, It might be better if you dropped me an email? Then you can tell me which parts you want to know more about and I can see if I can help.
Somehow I did not see this blouse when you made it, Diane. Lovely useful blouse in an interesting fabric! I’ve never heard of wool muslin before. It does have some of the crispness and sheerness that one finds in cotton muslins, but perhaps it really addresses the plain weave?? Is this washable?
Author
Hi Joan. Ah, glad you found it! Wool muslin is quite a gauzy fabric a little thicker than a voile but not quite a challis maybe. It is washable on a very cool wash or even better to handwash. I pre-washed mine and straight after washing it crinkles a little and then presses like a dream it then doesn’t seem to crease that much. Here’s a link to where I bought it, though it’s probably in my text above too https://www.swiss-textiles-shop.com/pi/WOOL/wollmousseline.html
Interesting: they call it wool muslin in English, but in Swiss French, it is woll mousseline: mousseline sounds refined to my ear, whereas muslin sounds quite mundane! In the States, ‘muslin’ fabric is most commonly used for fitting sample garments for a woven fabric (or as a stabilizing layer), ie, “I need to make a muslin first” whereas other countries say “make a toile, sample or mock-up garment”.
Author
Words are fascinating aren’t they? I’ve always thought of muslin as a very fine, voile-like fabric. I used to have thin muslin squares/blankets for my son when he was a baby and they were used for so many things like placing over your shoulder while you patted their back to burp them etc. And I call a garment mock-up a toile 🙂